[Janne]

I have my Waterlox original sealer/finisher and I have one of my countertops and I'm ready to start sealing it.

The waterlox website instructions say to use a natural bristle brush for the first application. The guy at the hardware store gave me a natural bristle paint brush. Is that what you use?

Also where did you all do this? Outside or inside? It's hot and humid outside here - will that wreck my countertop? Is it gonna smell much and for long? Instructions say to let 1st coat dry 12-24 hours but will it be touch dry before that and can I move it?

[Gloria]

I'm planning to do mine outside or at least in the garage because I heard the smell is awful. The humidity question is really relevant though. I would imagine that would at least make it take longer to dry. I'll be watching this thread to see what others who have used it have to say. Great questions!
Gloria

[NBeth]

So far I've done Waterlox in cool humid weather (winter in N.CA) and hot dry weather (summer). We were inside in winter but we left every window open (and we have a LOT of windows!) It really does stink ...but the smell goes away after a day or so.

As you would expect, hot and dry lead to faster drying times--I could carefully move the board in an hour or two. In the winter we used to do the Waterlox last thing before leaving for the night with the windows left open. We would stop by the next evening and do another coat. Fortunately for us, we don't have hot and humid--I'm guessing it would be halfway between. But we noticed that the first pass pretty much sinks in immediately--we went over those areas as part of a "single" coat.

Pour a little into a working tub or bucket (cottage cheese containers work well), then close the container. Repeat as needed. Don't pour leftovers back in if it seems like they've thickened, and keep the main container closed tightly: too much air and it will "gel"--and you'll be buying another can .

[tomkist]

NBeth beat me to it. Whatever she said.

We waterloxed our countertop in the garage with the side door open while applying, usually once in the morning when it was still relatively cool, and again about 12 hours later. Leaving the side door open while it dries wasn't a good idea as dust would blow in and settle on the wood. We used clean, lint-free rags, and they worked pretty well, though we probably applied 6 coats.

If you decide to work outside, you'll definitely want to protect the countertop from direct sun as that will probably lead to streaks / uneven coverage and possibly warpage of the wood. Our beech countertop, stained dark brown, noticeably warped after less than 30 minutes while it was outside in the sun being cut. (but not enough that it didn't still work!)

[kisaacs]

Agree on the rags. For the sealer, we used the rags, for the finish, we used the brush. The sealer was much thinner than the finish, so the rags were easy.

It does stink. Alot. We did it in the basement with the windows open. I would do one quick coat before I went to work inthe morning and one when I got back in the evening.

Also, when you're done with the rag, put them in a bucket of water. You DO NOT want to throw them in the trash as they are very very flammable. Soak those babies well!

Kristen

[Janne]

oh thank you, lots of good ideas here. I'm getting the idea doing this out on my deck isn't going to work what with the heat, humidity, threatening rain, and dust. Looks like it's the basement then.

Thanks heaps!

[NBeth]

Originally Posted by tomkist

Our beech countertop, stained dark brown, noticeably warped after less than 30 minutes while it was outside in the sun being cut. (but not enough that it didn't still work!)

Tomkist, can you post (perhaps separately) how you did that stain? Lots of people are interested in the concept of darker counters... I thought you had posted but I could never find it when I looked..... Thanks!

[tomkist]

I just created a new thread with some detail about staining and sealing the countertop. http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/73087-post1.html

I think that link should work...