Help, Metal Studs

weatherboy80 · Feb 2nd, 08, 5:56 pm

Hi all,

I started to hang my suspension rail for my upper wall cabinets (39") and ran into metal instead of the normal wood studs. How the heck am I supposed to mount onto that? What kind of hardware is needed for that?

I really don't want to take the drywall down, but I also don't want to have the cabinets come crashing down.

Any help would be appreciated

Nothing is ever easy ...

Thanks!

torrus · Feb 2nd, 08, 6:03 pm

You can use metal screws to connect to the metal stud, or use the 'EZ' anchors to attach the rail to the drywall ( every eight inches should be enough).

weatherboy80 · Feb 2nd, 08, 6:10 pm

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm pulling what hair I have left out tonight

Any particular kind of metal screws?

Should I be worried about the weight with only metal or drywall screws?

Thx!

weatherboy80 · Feb 2nd, 08, 10:23 pm

I'm a bit nervous because things I've read online say that the steel studs used in newer homes do not have the load capacity for heavy objects like fully loaded wall cabinets.

Anbody out there have any experience hanging their rail into metal studs and drywall alone?

I'm really not looking forward to drywall work, but will have to if that's the only way to sleep at night

Emmie9999 · Feb 2nd, 08, 10:50 pm

I can certainly understand your concern. This isn't the kind of thing you want to get wrong

Torrus did mention EZ anchors used every 8 inches or so into the drywall. Would you be comfortable with that? Torrus really knows his stuff, and I'm sure he will answer any more questions you may have about the process.

The only other solution I have heard of is to take down drywall and put in blocking. It would add a lot more labor, but it would be solid. Perhaps another member will have some more wisdom for you.

Narf · Feb 3rd, 08, 5:25 am

Quick google search yielded this for an answer:
Cabinet questions from the Natural Handyman home repair and do it yourself website

weatherboy80 · Feb 3rd, 08, 6:46 am

Thanks Again - I want to get this right before moving on.

Also, these are the cabinets that will also help support the under the cabinet microwave so the weight is obviously an issue.

Sigh, If I was to put in wood blocking between the studs what wood material should I use (2X6)? Also, what screws would I attach them into the metal studs?

Sorry for all the questions

weatherboy80 · Feb 4th, 08, 9:08 am

Well, I opted to cut the drywall out and put in some 2X4 cross braces to make me more comfortable. Plus since most of the drywall cuts will be behind the cabinets it shouldn't be too big of a deal. I may mud and sand the drywall just to make it flat and then call it done since it will not be visible when done. This way I can attach the rail to both the metal studs using metal screws and to the 2X4 cross braces. This should be enough I would think?

Unfortanetly, I did nick an electrical wire while cutting the drywall that caused a few sparks to fly

I have an electrician coming out to access the damage. Hoepfully it won't be that bad.

Please tell me that my cabinets will be secure when loaded

It's always a bigger job than you plan!

tbow · Feb 6th, 08, 7:56 am

1 1/2" sheetrock screws into the metal studs would have been strong enough. Sheetrock screws are designed to penetrate the metal studs.

A metal stud by itself is farily flimpsy but when screwed together with a top and bottom plate and the sheetrock, it's ever bit as strong as a wood 2x4 for hanging purposes. The only trick with metal studs is if the hole gets stripped, you have to create another hole.

But now that you got it open, putting blocking in will allow you to add extra screws between the studs.

With the patch, just close it up with the sheetrock and a coat of mud and tape will be all you need. No need to sand because it's all behind the cabinets..

weatherboy80 · Feb 6th, 08, 10:09 am

Thanks for the reassurance on that. With the extra 2X4 that will make it easier to place extra screws into the rail. This makes me more comfortable and will make my wife happy since she will be loading lots of expensive glass into the upper cabinets along with helping to support the OTR microwave.

The only causality thus far has been the 1 electrical wire that I cut when opening up the drywall. That set me back about $100 for repairs.