Discuss Questions about Edge Banding Page 4 on IKEAFANS.com. We're Personalizing the IKEA Experience. Questions about Edge Banding - Please limit the posts in this section to questions and answers about assembly and installation issues only..
Does anyone know if you order the FastEdge banding...just peel and stick (I'm Adel MB going with the Fuji Cherry based on others recommendations), do you need to iron off the old birch or just stick it on top of the birch laminate?
Also, I am planning on using it for false doors....for my island, I will have cabs facing one way (lets say to the north), behind them will be two cabs placed sideways thus facing east and west respectively...so if I just put a cover panel on the sides of the north facing ones, it will look awkward with doors right beside them. One ikean told me put panels then doors on top because of the space around the door (door is smaller than the cab by a bit) but another Ikean who seemed much more knowledgeable pointed out that the cover panel and door would add too much thickness making it stick out farther than the east and west facing doors adjacent...anyone following this? So, I figured, why not run this edgebanding around the outside - side of the cabinet and then mount the false door fronts. Any flaw in this aproach?
Boy, just thought of something. of course the very bottom of the side of the cab will not be covered by the door but I figured just toe kick, but the cab that is truly facing that way will be recessed at the bottom for the toe kick..how do I bump that toe kick out to be flush with the sideways cab.
Sorry for the confusing description...do I need another approach. HELP!
I wanted to get the 3/4" size to put on my facings and hoped that it would be close enough to not warrant trimming. I found a vendor with that size, which is unusual, since 15/16" seems to be the standard stock size. The 3/4" is costing more than the 15/16", however, but I was willing to pay more if I didn't need to trim. So should I just go for the 15/16" and buy the trimmer instead?
FYI, the Manitoba Maple seems to be the closest match to Askome, if anyone was wondering.
If you cabinets are already assembled, you really don't have much choice but to use the 3/4". If they are not put together yet, get the wider banding and trim it down. It is much faster with the trimmer because you don't have to perfectly align the edges.
Ah, that makes sense. Mine are not assembled, so I'll get the wider banding and the trimmer. I do like the idea of the trimmer making the cuts straight rather than trying to align the tape perfectly myself.
On the side where the cabinets are not recessed for toekick abutting ones that are... Can you just attach a piece of toekick to the front and "fill in" the recess? Make a smooth face all the way along?
Also - I think that if you put edgebanding around the cabinet underneath your false door it'll be just fine. You just need to fill in under the part that shows beneath the false door.
I believe there's a thread here where edgebanding was put ON TOP of the laminate (so no, the "birch" effect was not removed beforehand) For application under the false door I think this would be absolutely fine, but definitely make sure you clean thoroughly and wipe down with alcohol so you get the best adhesion.
So I got my Fastedge edgebanding and I'm going to town.The trimmer does a wonderful job on the sides, but what is the best thing to use at the ends? I've tried my utility knife (the blade is somewhat new, but I guess I could put a brand new one in), but it doesn't get it the first time. I have to sort-of whittle away at it. My extra-sharp kitchen shears can't get flush, either.
Laugh if you must, but I decided to try the extra-wide toenail clipper. I had bought one a few weeks ago and forgot it was sitting in the bathroom drawer. It actually works better than everything I've tried so far! The blade is a hair narrower than the frame edge and it may take more than one squeeze, but you get a straight cut. However, I am sorry to report that this thing fails as a toenail clipper. The opening is just too narrow to accommodate the thicker nails it was designed to cut.
I've edgebanded cabinets in black polyester iron-on and Fuji Cherry Fastedge in the last month, and wanted to relay my experiences.
First, the Fastedge is a nice product. It was much easier to work with than I expected. It did not stick to itself, and it was easy to reposition. It was also a lot less brittle than the polyester edgebanding, which has a tendency to chip. It's expensive though-- about 50 cents a foot-- but probably worth it for something as costly as a kitchen remodel. For Adel MB, I think this is the way to go; the Fuji Cherry is a good match. Fastedge is now carried by a industrial supply chain called Fastenal, which has more than 3000 branches in the U.S.. I ordered it by calling my local store by phone and it arrived at the store 2 days later.
I also banded some cabs in black using polyester edgebanding from Edgeco. The advantages of the poly edgebanding are that it's inexpensive ($18 for 250 ft.), easy to position, and can be removed later with a hot iron. However, I found this product to be quite brittle, and the edgebanding on several of the cabs chipped on install. I'll repair that with Sharpie, I guess, but I'm a bit concerned about how the polyester tape will hold up over time. If I have a problem I guess I'll apply 3/4" Fastedge in black.
I can't comment on PVC edgebanding other than to say that I think it would be superior to polyester because it would be less brittle. I don't think PVC is available in an iron-on product, though--- you would be looking at Fastedge or glueing it yourself.
I had great success using black electrical tape as edge banding on my Abstrakt Black kitchen island. The whole project took about 10 minutes and looks absolutely fabulous! Nobody has asked me "hey is that tape?", but they did notice that my island looks much better now that the white cabinet boxes are no longer visible between my doors/drawers.
What more electrical tape is easy to apply, easily covers the offending areas (as well as the edges of the ganged cabinet boxes themselves). Also electrical tape is resilient and never fades oecomes brittle over time. Um, did I mention that it's cheap? I think I spent about $1.25 and no special tools were needed. If damaged, repairs are super easy.
Although Abstrakt Black is no longer available, electrical tape as edge banding will work great for Tidaholm Brown-Black, Nexus Brown-Black, Applad Black, Rubrik Blue-Gray, and even Sorbo. Could also be used as a quick cheap fix for Lilje dark brown.
I plan on using it again when I update the rest of my kitchen with Nexus Brown-Black.
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Any idea what to use to remove the excess adhesive from the edges? I've tried Goo Gone and that helps some, but it seems like it just loosens whatever is stuck to the glue, but doesn't actually get rid of the glue (I can clean it, then later it will end up with black gunk around the edges just from normal handling). Is there anything that might dissolve the excess adhesive without hurting the finish? I checked their website, but I'm not seeing a FAQ or other helpful information.
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