[customer4]

but looking at the posts for the aAkurum suspension rail, it appears that the Effektiv cabinets will stick out of the wall since there is no lip or part that sticks out to hang on the rail, and that that is really not the best solution.

However, if one is going to put heavy books in the Effektiv cabinet, one needs more than a few screws going into the walls. Dilemma.

If you do have pix of your installation, and a detailed summary of how you finally were able to install your Effektiv cabinets, please share. I am sitting here scratching my head, wondering if I should take back the Effektiv cabinets and trade them in for the Akurum ones

thanks!

[customer4]

I'm answering my own question. I called long distance to an engineer friend of mine who had mounted the floating Effektiv cabinets. Here are his directions:

These are directions for the floating wall-mounted cabinets:

When you finish mounting them you will find that they are not backed up against the wall. That is ok.

He took a piece of wood – called a ledger-- and screwed it into studs in the drywall.
Ledger measurements = one inch thick two inches tall and is width of cabinet L to R

Could use a 2 x 4 if you don't mind having a bigger gap behind it.

He mounted an angled piece aluminum , 1/16 inch thick with the L’s (the angles) being 1 ½” by 1 ½ “ . He then put in screws every 6 inches across the ledger into the drywall, and screwed the aluminum angle onto that ledger also with screws every 6 inches so that aluminum is sticking out towards you in the room

Both the ledger and aluminum angle length will then be even with bottom of cabinet

He rested the back edge of the cabinet on the ledger such that the floating cabinet base is sitting on ledger

His first task was to get the ledger level and then he said that cabinet will be automatically level if you got the ledger/aluminum pkg level . It is easier to level the ledger (light) than it is to level the cabinet (heavy).

He put the back edge of the cabinet on the aluminum attached to the ledger

He then screwed up through the aluminum (cabinet is sitting on this) into the base of the cabinet

Top part of cabinet is screwed into wall via the back of the cabinet. If you don't do this, the cabinet will tend to lean forward.

At the top edge of cabinet, he used the same ledger/aluminum angle unit. The aluminum angle, however, now sits on the top edge of cabinet. Again, he screwed down from on top of the aluminum into the cabinet.

He told me to note: the bottom of the cabinet is solid wood. The top of the cabinet is hollow . However, the last inch and a half left and right of the cabinet on the top piece, where it joins to the vertical pieces (the sides) is solid --so you need to get some good screws in there to hold up the cabinet to the aluminum.

You will see where the solid part is and is not. You will feel it as you put in the screws. Just remember: get good screws in the very top left and top right.


Use #8 drywall screws to screw them through the ledger and into the drywall = ½ inch ledger plus 1 inch screws Inch into wood stud behind the drywall. "When in doubt make it stout"


Good point: When it gets easy all of a sudden to screw the drywall screws into the wall, you have missed the stud!

Anyhow, this is the best explanation that I have found, and although you will need a drill press to make the 6" holes in the aluminum for the screws that go into the ledger (the piece of wood across the back of the cabinet), it sounds as if this is the best method to mount the cabinets if they are destined to carry a heavy load.


I still am surprised that Ikea doesn't have any detailed instructions on this (unless they don't because of a legal thing re: giving advice on wall mounts in case the cabinets fall off).

[ftaok]

I think many of these solutions are really great, but none of them really address the issue that you can't get the effektiv cabinet to be totally flush against the wall.

I have been thinking of this for my office/den and will probably end up using the mounting rail from the Arkum series.

Here's how I plan on doing it.

I think the Arkum rail is 1/2" deep, by 2" wide, by whatever length you want/need. I would cut the drywall so that I could mount the rail directly onto the stud, without any drywall in between. I may have to use some shims or washers so that the front of the rail is flush with the front of the drywall.

Then I would mount the Effektiv with the t-bold and nut, just like the Arkum cabinets are mounted. As long as the rail is hidden behind the Effektiv cabinet, you won't even see it.

I just need to remember to leave enough space to slip in the t-bolt.

[customer4]

We actually ignored my engineering friend's suggestions (too overkill) and just used the Akrum rail. We had a wall that was a combo of concrete with drywall over it. So we drilled holes, put in concrete anchors, then screwed the cabinets into those.

Made me nervous-- just 2 screws per cabinet, but so far they haven't fallen down. I wanted to put a long piece of wood underneath but we did not (husband a bit insulted that I questioned his ability to judge the strength of the connection

so far so good.