[jen_va]

We're planning to use the IKEA Pragel laminate countertops. (I know, there are lots of better/more durable countertop options out there, but these are by far the cheapest and we're already way over budget. We're thinking we'll upgrade in a couple of years, after our finances have recovered.) We have a corner where the counter makes a 90 degree turn. Everything we've read from IKEA says we should use the Pragel joining strip at the seam of the two counter pieces -- except when we went to IKEA this week, the kitchen person told us the joining strip has been discontinued, and she had no idea how the countertops should be joined without it. It's not like we'll miss the ugly bump the joining strip would have made, but I'm totally confused about how we're supposed to connect the two sections without the strip, and without having a crumb-collecting crevice. Any suggestions (keeping in mind that we're planning to remove the counter in a couple of years, so something like gluing the counter to the cabinet boxes is out)? Thanks!

Jen

[LilithNS]

Welcome to the board Jen.

Oh oh, I really hope it's not discon't here (Canada). I called last week to get a shipping quote for it and they didn't mention it. Altho, it's $13.95 to have it shipped! I'd better phone this am. You could use a piece of 1/2" cove molding upside down, it fits over the rounded edge v. well. Paint it match the counter as well as you can. Do you have Ikea cabs with the srips on top that have the predrilled holes for attaching the counter? I think those are enough to hold the two pieces together. I really hope someone chimes in with a better idea for you. What colour are you getting?

Lisa2

[jen_va]

Currently, we plan on stone black Pragel counters. That is, as long as we stick with the Stat doors. I really prefer the Askerum, but I don't know that I like them enough more to justify the extra cost -- especially since we've already spent "just a little more" on the floor, window, and sink ("Oh, here's the cheap baseline option we've already decided on. But oooh, look over here! Here's a much nicer idea. And it's only a little more! Cha-ching!").

Good luck with ordering the Pragel joining strips. One Ikean here told me that every time she's tried to order them, they've been back-ordered and she was told that although they're still available in the computer, they're being discontinued very, very soon. So maybe you'll get lucky and find some. We're still a month or two away from needing counters, so we're holding off on ordering until then (trying to break our habit of ordering supplies for projects then tripping over them for months until we get around to using them). If we're lucky, maybe they'll have come up with a new joining system by the time we're ready to buy.

Jen

[Lisa]

Home Depot has laminate counters you can install yourself and I swear they use a connector system to pull the two pieces together tight. Can you poke your head in a hardware store and see what they suggest? If memory serves, it's very similar to a cam bolt, so you need a bit to drill it out probably.

[DesignDiva]

It's called a draw bolt, here's a pic: http://www.cabinetmart.com/69-1420312.html

You need to rout the area out under the cabinet where it will sit, insert the bolt and then tighten it up to draw the two parts of the countertop together.

[jen_va]

Thanks, guys. Another dumb question -- what kind of tool do we use to rout out the space for the bolt? (If this is yet another project requiring we purchase a new tool, it may wind up being more cost-effective to spend a little more to buy Home Depot's install-it-yourself counters.)

Thanks!

Jen

[DesignDiva]

A router is the tool you need! They are cheap enough, but make sure you either practice a bit with it first or get someone who has used one before to help you.

[Tigratrus]

If a router's not a possibility (though EVERYONE NEEDS one!, sorry, I'm a not-so-recovering tool collector ) you might be able to substitute using a large Forstner Bit (drills flat bottomed holes) to drill a 1/2" (maybe deeper) or so deep hole on either side of the counter.Mark where theyneed to be lined up (mark them by putting the counter together upside down and drawing a short pencil line across the joint and at 90 degrees TO the joint). The hardest part will be drilling the holes through the edge (where the two pieces will join)of the counter (drill bit parallel with the counter face and perpendicular to the joint) and into the 1/2" deep cylindical hole that you drilled with the forstner bit. Once you do the same thing to both sides you should be able to put the draw bolt through both sides and tighten it up.

I't use a MUCH bigger forstner bit than you think you need, to give yourself enough room to get the bolt in.Overdrill the hole from the edge to the newly made depression/cylindical hole too to allow for slight misalignment problems. And make sure to set the forstner bit hole far enough back from the edge to provide enough strength where the draw bolt will be pulling against.

The router would definitely be a better tool for the job though! Take a look at the undersides of counters in HD/Lowes and you should be able to find an example of how the draw bolts are supposed to be used.

In either case,DO practice a few time on pieces of scrap before trying it on your counters, there's always SOMETHING that doesn't work the way you expect it to :shock:. Trial runs are good insurance against attack from that sneakySOB Murphy...

[Tigratrus]

Oi! Just have to add this as an inveterate (NOT INVERTEBRATE Susan! I never typed that on the other post either... Just typed FYI instead of DIY, it was a short between the floor and the keyboard) tool collector:

NEVER buy cheap tools. You will never regret spending too much on a GOOD tool that you will use for years to come, but you will FREQUENTLY curse yourself for buying a cheaper tool that makes the job harder than it had to be, or ruinsa project, or breaks and has to be replaced etc... Not saying it has to be expensive mind you, just do a little research on google/amazon etc and get a GOOD tool even if it's a bit more expensive. It'll save you boatloads in the long run.

Susan's sick of hearing me say "Never buy cheap tools" I'm sure... But the few times I've broken that mantra I have indeed regretted it... So it's worth keeping in mind when the topic ofbuying tools for a project come up.

[GardenOfDarwin]

Also, never buy cheap jewelery.

Invertebrate.

Susan