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Old Aug 15th, 06, 9:41 am   #1
jenswrens
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I'd like to hear from anyone who has stacked wall cabinets. Which cabinets should be installed first? The ones on the very top, or should we start at the bottom and work our way up? Should we measure starting from the ceiling or the floor? It seems like we should start from the floor.

I just want to make sure that the bottom of one row aligns snugly with the top of the second row.

If you stacked, how did you do your install? Any tips are appreciated!

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Old Aug 15th, 06, 10:22 am  
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I started from the top. Since I don't have level floors, I initially "temporarily" installed the base cabinets, then measured up allowing for counters, work space (I used about 18"), custom light rail, bottom cabinets, custom trim (for between the cabinets), and then top cabinets. OnceI hung the top rail, I went ahead and installed the support for my crown moulding (which will eventually follow the face of cabinets rather than the edge of the kitchen.) I needed the fit to be tight and very even, and it did take me 2 attempts to get it just right.

But it's not hard (and mine was complicated by the fact that my walls are neither perfectly plumb nor flat), it just takes careful measuring.



Here's what the temporary install looked like (I had it take it apart again to install the trim):



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Old Aug 15th, 06, 11:03 am  
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Katalase: Do you have more pics yet that you can post in the photo's section? I love the stacked effect.

How high are your ceilings?

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Old Aug 15th, 06, 11:11 am  
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OMG Katalese! I am so glad you posted these pics. We are stacking cabinets and it is about to drive us crazy because we are trying to line them so that go to the ceiling,but itis not going to happen without us putting some sort of moulding in between. We actually started from the bottom wall cabinets first just to get them the right height for me to reach into them. What did you put between your cabinets to hang you trim? What kind of moulding are you doing between the stacks. When I planned to stack my cabinets I didn't think it all the way through so now we are having to problem solve :?

Edited to add we are also doing Adel White so if you find a paint match for additional trim,I would love to know!


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Old Aug 15th, 06, 11:13 am  
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Thanks Katalase. Your install looks great!

What is the support for your crown molding and how did you attach it? What size is your crown? I'm planning on using a traditional crown that is 3" and factoring this in with everything else istaxing my brain! I've made so many pencil marks on my wall, I'm feeling like a 4 year old let loose with a crayon. Plus it's getting hard to decipher the hieroglyphics. :shock: I need to hurry up and commit to hanging at least one cabinet. After your temporary install did you have to adjust your rail placement or did you just install trim?

Also, was there a reason other than aesthetics for using the trim between the two rows of cabinets?

Are those shims I see?

And gee, I need that ladder in your picture! I've just been standing on a chair all morning. :blush:


Maybe I can't DIY this after all -- I think I'm too mechanically and spatially challenged...

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Old Aug 15th, 06, 6:19 pm  
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Laurie, My ceilings are about 9'. I don't have much else installed at the moment as I got sidetracked attempting to find a decent paint match. I'll get more photos up in my progress blog below as I get further along.

Tudi, I'm using a very simple 1.5" x 1.5" square piece of MDF molding that I had manufactured by a local cabinet maker (not expensive... he just glued two .75" x 1.5" pieces together and primed it.) I got my inspiration from this photo of traditional inset cabinets:



My version is much simpler, but I'm having it protrude slightly to give the cabinets a bit more dimension/depth. (I may eventually get simple corbels made, but I haven't decided.) I'm using the same trim for the light rail, but mounting it flush w / the cabinet face. I'm attaching it using steel right-angle brackets and then screwing the brackets directly to the underside of the top cabinets. The fit is snug enough that I don't plan on having to screw it to the bottom cabinets, but may attach a few scrap pieces of wood to the back of the moulding and then just screw up through the insides of the bottom cabinets if need be.

Paint match: Uh, not quite yet. This is the Benjie Moore I'm using. Sometimes it looks dead on, and sometimes it looks a little light. I think it picks up other colors a little more (due to sheen) than the cabinets, so perhaps once I paint my walls and tile my backsplash, it will be OK. The tone is OK, but it seems about a shade light.



Jenswrens, The crown moulding support is a 1 x4 screwed to a 2 x 3 at a right angle, then w/ the 1 x4 screwed to the ceiling joists (which run perpendicular to my upper cabinet runs.) The face of the 2 x 3 is flush w/ the front of the cabinet boxes. I'mattaching simple MDF base moulding to the 2 x 3 (it's about the thickness of Ikea door cabinets which will bring the face up flush to the cabinet doors, and then the crown moulding will be nailed to that (and the ceiling joists). Why the extra step? Because it's about a 4" gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceilings (I didn't want to mount the cabinets any higher nor did I want to use heavier crown moulding which I think would have looked out of place in a small and simple kitchen.) Plus, this way I have more room for error... I don't have to calculate EXACTLY the height of 3.25" crown moulding. (Oh, OK... it's 2.3" since it's just a simple right triangle... but I really didn't want to try to measure that exactly.) And I don't have to worry if the 2 x 3 is not perfectly straight, since I can compensate for that w/ the fascia.



I did adjust the railing once after hanging one cabinet because somehow I'd manage to hang it at a a very slight angle.) Aesthetics is really the only reason;the trim isn't structural. And yes, those are shims... the only things that keep everything straight. My hanging rails were pretty heavily shimmed, too. I'm sure you can DIY ... it does get easier after you've hung one set.




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Old Aug 15th, 06, 8:46 pm  
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Thanks for the details Katalese. I will have to try the color match this weekend. I found a plain 2 inch moulding at Lowes that could work for me. Did you attach your moulding strip between cabs to a 2x4?

Jenswrens, don't give up on the DIY . I hate measuring, which is why we have had to relocate the suspension rails numerous times :?But we eventually get it right 50 screw holes later



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Old Aug 17th, 06, 11:40 am  
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Tudi, The 51" piece of in-between moulding is attached tofour 1" L-brackets which are in turn screwed to the bottom of the upper wall cabinets (the 15" run). I also screwed a few (good sized) pieces of scrap wood to the back of the moulding. Thus, once I re-install the lower wall cabinets (this weekend, I hope!), I can just screw up through the 'ceiling' of the lower cabinet to further stabilize the moulding (if it needs it.)

What you see between the cabinets in the top photo is actually pieces of scrap moulding (primed but not painted) that I used to double-check whether or not I'd hung the 2nd rail in the right place. Um, hope that makes sense! I'll try to remember to take some pictures of it before I put in the second run of wall cabinets.

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