[Izumino]

Hi. I cut and attached my support rail for my wall cabinets on either side of our sink according to instruction - 1/4" less than the overall length. However, due to either mis-measurement, weird walls, or the whims of the Gods, I have approx 1/2" of rail stll showing after my cabinets have been attached.

We are planning to attach cover panels to the sides of the cabinets facing the sink. I was hoping these cover panels would cover the tail ends of these rails. Would this work? I am hesitant to take down the cabinet and try to further cut the rail because, once again just on a fluke, those rail ends happen to have a screw at that end directly into a stud that happens to be there to box out the window over the sink.

I happened to be at Ikea yesterday and the Kitchen Rep suggested I could "notch out" the back of the panel over those rails, but I'm not sure if that would look OK or if i'd just stare at it while doing the dishes every day for the rest of my life. I can take down the cabs, unscrew the whole rail, cut it down, and pray, but I am also hesitant to do this because the screws are so nice and tight in the studs right now.

If anyone has any advice before this weekend, I'd appreciate it. The Wife is getting antsy. Thanks.

[Chuck]

A couple of possibilities here.

If you layout allows, center the cabinets on the rail, with equal amounts of rail exposed (1/4" by your count) on each side; then carefully notch the inside of the cover panel in that upper back corner (the side going against the cabinet) enough to allow the rail to fit inside the notch, then attach normally. Depending on what tools you have, you can do this with a chisel, a saw (hand or power), a router, etc., or some combination of those. If you're careful, you could remove as much as 3/8" from each panel.

Another option (again, depending on your layout) is to slide the cabinets down enough to cover that end of the rail, and cut the other end. If you have a reciprocating saw/sawzall, you could cut the rail without taking it down - it will carve up the wall a little, but this can be patched easily.

Otherwise your options are living with the exposed rail, or undoing all your work and starting over. Because you've already done the hard work - leveling and installing the rail , hanging and securing the cabinets, etc. - installing the second time will be a little easier. Personally, I hate undoing my work, so I'd go for one of the other options.

[Izumino]

Thanks for yor very detailed reply! I have one other question:

If I have, say, 4 screws holding up the rail, and I have to remove the end of the rail that is held in by a screw in oen of studs, are 3 attachments enough to support a 24" cabinet and one of those PERFEKT display shelves? I knowit's engineered well, but I'm always nervous about that..

Thanks for your help!

[Chuck]

Depending on their size, the 3 screws should be fine. You can also take a slightly longer screw than you've been using and screwing it at an angle into the stud in question. If you're really concerned, you could use a couple of toggle bolts or drywall anchors at that end of the rail - these aren't for bearing great amounts of weight, but will add a little extra "help".

Finally, there's a little trick you can do using a piece of 2x4 scrap, but this involves opening up the wall behind your cabinet, and probably isn't worth the effort and mess involved.

[torrus]

Another point re: rail length - the bolts holding the wall cabinet to the rail are 1.75" in from the side of the cabinet - which leaves quite a bit of space to adjust the length of the rail.

[Narf]

Got a Dremel? Just cut off the channel portion, leaving the flange piece mounted. This will minimize the protrusion without sacraficing a mounting point; perhaps even a little putty and paint can conceal it completely.