[cupoftea]

I dream about a sliding door between my bedroom and a bathroom. So what do you think, is there any way to build it from Ikea doors?
By the way, does anyone could recommend good modern interior doors, not wooden (cost too much), but nicely looking?

[DesignDiva]

I bet you could, if the sizing worked for your space. You'd need a few special hardware components, so do a search for "barn door hardware" and you should get an idea of what you need to know about the doors to fit the hardware. There's a lot of different systems of hardware out there, but I bet you can find one that will work for you!

I believe someone here (splatgirl maybe?) did a sliding barn-door style with IKEA doors, and I'm thinking maybe Kathy (kmcg) did a shoji-screen type thing as well. Check in the galleries or search the forums!

[madp67]

Eva's right. Here's a link with Kathy's great looking doors - it's #4.
http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/got-q...ing-doors.html

[cupoftea]

THANK YOU!

[splatgirl]

totally do-able if you're willing to figure out a work around using the existing PAX hardware or other, non-IKEA hardware.
I have several sliding doors in my home. I get the hardware from Johnson Hardware. I also turned the STORDAL doors into a room divider using the stock hardware.

PAX uses a variation of a wall mount application for the sliding doors (vs. overhead mount...once you look at the JH website you'll understand what this means if you don't already know).
If you want to go the route of using the stock hardware that comes with the IKEA doors, keep in mind that the PAX mounting brackets and track are unique to IKEA and made to attach and work specifically with the PAX carcasses, so that hardware won't work without a little messing around. But I'm certain it could be made to work.
OTOH , if you want to start from scratch, JH will have what you need but you'll need to make sure you can attach it to the doors without damaging them. (their hardware is sold based on weight of the door and attachment method) Easier done with the wood varieties than glass/aluminium.

The other thing to consider is that the back side of the PAX sliding doors are not intended to be seen. Depending on the style, there may be holes or other "unsightly" issues on the wrong side.

As far as inexpensive modern interior doors, good luck. I've never really found any. One thing I've done is to use a solid core, flat slab door...no panels or moulding or anything. They're readily available in many species of wood and probably masonite, too. Paint them the color of your choice. I paid ~$120 for an eight footer from HD, special order, about a week lead time. If you're going to hang them barn door style, make sure you get them undrilled and without hinge mortices.

	OTOH definition OTOH means On The Other Hand

[jfranci3]

I just posted this in another section My PAX sliding door mouted to drywall project.

[saccity1]

I am still trying to solve the challenge of making Pax Stordal (glass/aluminum) doors into a sliding door room divider. Was hoping to hang them as pocket doors, but absolutely cannot use a base rail to hold them in place. (Currently they swing so much that they would fall off the top rail.) I've been told that I need a floor guide in the middle of the space to prevent the swinging effect but am encountering resistance from partner on cutting up the new bamboo flooring!
So I'm going to contact Johnson Sliding Door Hardware to see if they have a top-rail-only solution - but I need to know the approximate weight of the doors. I "asked Anna" at the Ikea site, but never got a response!
The two doors I am using are each 90" x 60".
Can anyone out there please give me a clue as to the weight of each door?

[splatgirl]

Do you still have the packaging? It may be printed on the outside of the box someplace.

The Johnson stuff is sold based on weight of doors...err on the side of the heavier duty hardware...
They do have several top mount only systems (I have two of them in use) but IME, a small guide bracket is still fairly crucial in getting the doors to operate properly across the span, and with a top-mount only system, the larger the span, the more you need a bottom guide.

Consider how large barn doors are mounted sans bottom guide. The mounting brackets are large and rigid and extend like a C shape over the top and down onto the sides of the doors which is what prevents the lateral movement.