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I am planning on installing a PAX wardrobe, 118" and the tallest one. The wardrobe won't cover my entire wall but will be a set in a corner of the room. Here is my problem. I won't put baseboard along the wall in the back because the wardrobe will be attached to the wall. But what about the side wall? If I install a baseboard then I will have a half inch between the pax unit and the wall. If I don't, the baseboard will stop at the Pax unit but the door is sliding to the edge of the unit and will be being the baseboard. Does that make sense? What is the best way (cleanest I guess) to install the unit. I thought I could install the baseboard up to the box and then just enough of the baseboard to let the door slide to the maximum.
In all likelihood, you'll find that once you plumb the carcass in both planes, it won't matter, because no corner I have ever met is straight enough to allow you to put something snug into it, floor to ceiling.
, there is a bit of a recess in the backs of the side panels of PAX to allow for clearance over existing baseboards (assuming standard height baseboards) The problem with removing the baseboard on the side of the carcass is that it will then overlap the front where it ends and interfere with the door opening...basically what I think you were saying.
Just leave it. Wait until you get the PAX in there, plumbed and screwed to the wall and see what it looks like then. If it's something you can't live with you can always use a filler strip there as is done with kitchens. In that case, a ripped down piece of toekick from the as-is department may fit the bill nicely.
Follow S/G's advice and install the wardrobe with the side baseboard in place. With the sliding doors in place, you won't notice the gap unless you stand right in front of it, and chances are the wall/floor aren't true to each other, and the gap will vary over the 93" run of the wardrobes.
Do you have 95+" ceiling height? Just make sure.
And just for the record, the backs of Pax units are NOT trimmed to allow for baseboard molding. I think Billy bookcases are the only line now that has that feature.
97" is enough. Just remember to lift the unit from sitting on its face after you've nailed the back panel on. 2 people recommended as the 93" unit is heavy. A couple recent posters here built the unit on its side and then tried to lift onto its base and the weight of the unit tears itself apart.
Chuck, my ceiling is currently 97 1/2 and I have 3/4 hardwood coming in so at the minimum I will have around 96 1/2 from floor to ceiling. Is this enough to build on the floor?
96 1/2"? Freak - there'll be room enough for a marching band on top of your wardrobes!
Ludes is right - you'll have plenty of room. You really only need about 95".
And Ludes is also right about the assembly process. If you start the process with one side on the floor and the top and bottom facing up, turn the unit on its face, so the raw back edges face up. Then add the other side of the unit to the group. Carefully add the 2 plinth pieces into the mix, tighten all your hardware, and nail on the back panel. Use ALL the nails - if you have a nail gun, that's even better.
Once you have all the hardware tightened and the back is secure, you can then - and ONLY then - stand the unit up and push it into place. If you read some of the older threads around here that ludes referred to, you'll learn about mistakes others have made in assembling their units.