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Also, I might add, that if you click on the pictures in the Flickr site, I have descriptions of many of the items.
The rug, the leather work chair, curtains, my fabric cabinets, even the table that the sewing machine sits on are ALL from Ikea. The table, which is no longer sold, was found in Ikea "As Is" it raises and lowers, and it very heavy! It makes a great sewing table. Also, inside the closet is a PAX closet unit, which is wonderful for storing so much of my essentials for projects and LOTS of fabric.
Both design walls were made with rigid foam insulation boards. The brand name I found is Foamular. I feel that these lightweight pink foam boards are better suited for this task than the white styrofoam boards which crumble with much pin use. Foamular saws and cuts nicely, we also made drawer inserts out of the scraps. (Photo is posted).
The one thing about Foamular is that it is pink, another manufacturer makes a similar insulation board that is blue. I wanted a true white design wall. To keep the color of the board from showing through, a light coating of Elmer's White Spray Glue was sprayed onto the board and then quilt batting was applied before the top layer.
To make this design wall, two insulation boards were glued edge to edge, to make one larger unit. A special adhesive made for gluing foam, found at the lumber, yard did the trick and was easy to use. I let the new, now larger board dry overnight.
Next came the learning curve. Before making this design wall that I love, my first attempt resulted in a design wall that I was not happy with. I had covered the foam board with a lofty polyester batting and finished with a flannel top. The polyester batting was too lofty. The flannel felt flimsy and didn't seem to provide the smooth solid white look I wanted.
What did work was what I tired next: white Hobbs 80/20 batting as the underlay with a top layer of a good quality wide felt. It looks and feels great! The felt has a lot of body to it compared to the flannel, it smoothed out very easily, wrapped around the board and was duct taped to the back side. It was very easy to work with and the end result is a smooth firm surface that is solid white in appearance, just what I wanted! (:
The white design wall is held in place, and trimmed out, with wood 1x2s, which were painted black prior to installation. The black design wall, on the other side of the room simply fits tightly enough between the two fabric cabinets and rests on a wood riser. The riser's purpose is to keep it up off the floor away from any stray threads or dust bunnies.
Just above the white design wall, the black curtain rod can be seen. It runs beyond the window, all the way across the wall. I can clip up quilts or yardage in front of the design wall for viewing.
Also, the window treatments, "Alvine Smal" in red and white, and "Index" rods are from Ikea. The curtain tie backs were made from scraps leftover after hemming the curtains.
The fully adjustable black leather, "Verskam" chair is also from Ikea. I like that it's adjustments include the ability to tilt the seat slightly forward.
Above the black design wall is a floating shelf which was found in the "As Is" bin at Ikea. It is a LAX style and matches the cutting table. It is mounted by brackets that fit inside the shelf. The tall fabric cabinets with glass doors are also components from Ikea.
My cutting table is a personal favorite. The colorful drawers are fun and this piece is so functional. The drawers are large and hold daily use items as well as many projects. This helps to keep the working surfaces clear. This piece is sold at Ikea, the "Varde" kitchen counter height storage unit makes a great height for rotary cutting.
To make it perfect for my purposes I wanted the table top to extend beyond the back of the base about 8 inches. That created knee room, so sitting there is comfortable. The new top is made of cabinet-grade plywood attached to the base of the unit. On top of the plywood lays a doubled-sided sheet of white melamine, a finish which is similar to formica. On top of the melamine layer, I have a white self-healing cutting mat which covers the entire surface. The table's edge trim keeps all layers in place, and is made from natural birch. The trim is flush at the top with the layers. The melamine top and the cutting mat can be interchanged, depending on they type of projects I am doing. The cutting mat came from quiltersrule.com. We used a table saw to trim the mat down just a bit to fit the top.
My ruler storage board is made from a melamine-coated particle board. This panel is 1/4" thick and 24 inches wide and this one is white on both sides. It was purchased from the local lumber yard.
To make this, first I laid it flat on my cutting table, arranged my rulers for spacing and marked with a pencil. Holes were drilled, and small stainless steel nuts and bolts added, providing the "hooks" to hang the rulers on. By taking one of my rulers to the hardware store, I was able to select the perfect size nut/bolt combination for this project, and the stainless looked good.
Two over-the-door, flat metal brackets were atttached to the back of the panel at the top. Also, four felt protector pads were attached at the corners of the back of the board to protect the wood closet door from any possible scuffing. It was then hung over the door. Two very tiny finishing nails, or brads, such as those used to attach molding and trim, were placed through the very bottom of the board and into the wood door for stability. I cringed to nail it, but they are very tiny, and on the door's inside, and they will be easy to fill if I ever take this down. This setup works perfectly. There is no problem at all opening or closing the door, which I do a lot, and very little movement of the rulers.
I have been using this for quite awhile now, and I am still very happy with it. It's nice that all of the rulers are within easy reach of the cutting table, easy to find yet out of the way! (:
Thin cotton batting was glued to the face of the foam insert boards with Elmer's white spray glue. Slits were cut through the batting and into the foam about every half inch with a utility knife. Fabric strips were placed on top and the edges stuffed into the slits.
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