[charms]

Hi - I'm new - first post, but I've been reading and there's tons of great iformation here. I hope someone might have the answer to my question about the Kvartal three rail panel system. Does anyone know if you can join more than two pieces of rail together? I have a sliding door opening just a little bit larger than two rails and didn't know if I cut the rails all the same size if I could use three rails? Also, can the panels slide to the very end of the rail or is there some safety that prevents you from using the whole length of the rail? Thanks so much!

[kisaacs]

I would think you can join more than two pieces together. We've got 2 joined together, and I'm pretty sure it's just a little joiner piece that you could easily use to string a bunch together.

There is a little cap for the ends of the rails to prevent the panels from sliding off the rail, but it's very near the end and therefore does allow you to use the whole rail, save maybe 1/2 inch at each end.

Kristen

[charms]

Thanks Kristen -- for both the answer and the speed with which you responded -- I'm going to try it!

[Chupisgirl]

I am attempting to install a ceiling mounted, three rail system. I am struggling to figure out how to connect the tabs -- the drawings are very confusing when it comes to placing the tabs to catch when opening/closing.

Also, in an Ikea flyer I downloaded (with possible combinations and the totals in Euros), I read that it was possible to connect them at the top AND the bottom. I'm trying to wrap my head around this one -- the only thing I can figure out is that you would have to buy twice as many top/bottom rails as recommended, and use the TOPS on top AND bottom. But as I write this, it occurs to me that you would need a bottom track if this was the case. Ideas? Help?

One other question -- I'm taking my time with this installation (which is totally unlike me), but I really want this installation to work for our closet for as long as possible. I'm sure that they need to be hung very straight so they will look and function correctly. But I'm a little worried about twisting and curling of the fabric. Has anyone tried stablizing the edges with tape or glue, or anything to help the fabric keep it's shape?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

[RubrikGreen]

As far as stabilizing the edges of your fabric... It depends somewhat on what type of fabric you're using.

The iron-on tape IKEA provides for hemming is probably the easiest way to add a little body to the edges of medium-to-heavy fabrics (the majority of what they sell). If you have plenty of width and losing about 1-1.5" (per panel) won't matter, you can just "hem" the entire edge of the panels using this tape. [Iron on right next to edge, pull away paper backing, fold over tape and iron down. This tape is a heat-activated glue.] (note: any fabric store sells this iron-on in pre-cut strips in rolls, and sometimes in yardage for you to cut your own strips)

If the fabric is heavy, you can use the iron on tape but you'd want to turn over at least 1-1.5" along the sides. The heavier fabric simply weighs more, and this additional weight requires more stabilization. So, you might then iron 2 strips side by side (if they're 1/2" wide then you'd iron 2 together to make 1" width of adhesive) then turn over 1"+ and iron down. You'd lose 2"+ in width this way.

If fabric is sheer, then the iron-on tape may show thru or even "ooze" thru the weave. You might have to do a test on an inconspicuous place or scrap. But it's probably unlikely that you'd be using a very sheer curtain over your wardrobe...

NON iron-on options would be sewing the hems in place, or sewing on a separate piece of matching or contrasting fabric (a binding).

FABRIC GLUE - works sort of like the iron on tape, but a bit messier and not as regular; however, most glues dry a bit stiffer than the iron-on tape. You'd want to press over the fold on the edge first, then use fabric glue to adhere the fold-over, and use clips/weights until dry. Glue would also show/ooze thru a very sheer fabric.

About the tracks/rails:
Looking at the KVARTAL PDF file, what you see as the "Top and Bottom Rail" 300.793.70 are the header bar and weight for the FABRIC PANEL.

You have the TRACK 000.793.62 (single track) which is mounted to the wall or ceiling.
The TRACK is filled up with GLIDERS 900.793.67 - which are the little roller guys.

You clip the TOP RAIL to the top of your curtain panel, and the BOTTOM RAIL to the bottom of your curtain panel. The TOP RAIL connects to the GLIDERS; the BOTTOM RAIL is a weight to keep the panel flat and straight. This is how the fabric panel is attached and hung from the TRACK.

IF YOU HAVE "REGULAR" CURTAINS (not panel) then you hook the curtain fabric to the GLIDERS with those safety-pin type hooks or use regular drapery hooks.

If you have TAB CURTAINS, then you'll want to hook each tab to a GLIDE (maybe each tab to 2 glides, if the tabs are wide).

I don't have the KVARTAL system, but I do have the DIVISION system, and the TOP RAIL is much the same. RAILS are the rigid bits that attach the panels to the TRACK.

[porterjess]

I have three 3-rail tracks mounted together... to cross a window in my living room that is ~120 inches... works great. I can't answer about the bottom "rail" or weights because I already had panels with weights from a different source, and mine have little stays in them to keep them straight... by the way, my panels are old roman shades with all the mechanisms and stings cut off so they just hang straight... they have weighted bottoms already and as I said have plastic horizontal stays that keep them stretched sideways... so that's an idea for panels if you don't already have some. I do find it irritating that Ikea insists on calling the bottom weights a "rail"... tres confusing.

As for the little metal strips that are meant to connect the tracks... I never figured it out. I just fudged it. I finally just ended up sliding them in between joining tracks without actually attaching them, making sure they were in the right slot so as not to interfere with the little plastic sliders and just using them to line up the tracks so they meet well. Once I firmly and tightly attached the ceiling mounts to the tracks, they didn't shift from side to side longways anymore, so the little metal bars inside just kept them from shifting side to side "shortways", if you will, so they would stay lined up. this worked for me, we slide things from track to track at least twice daily with no issues... sometime a little catch, but nothing that a tiny tug won't take care of.

I love these tracks... but the directions bite.

A note... when hacksawing them down to size, something I have only done recently in moving them to another spot... saw carefully because any irregularity in where the ends meet will make for a difficult time in creating a smooth transition! Whenever possible I lined up the factory-intact ends and used the spots where I had cut to go under the end caps.

Hope that helps... haven't had m' coffee yet... it's possible I made no sense at all...

[ttsgramma]

In a ceiling mount application, does anyone know how far away I have to mount the rail from the wall? It looks like I might have to do some 'screwing' from the back side AFTER I hang the panels. How would I get a screwdriver back there if my rails are too close to the wall? I want to be as close as possible. I'm hanging 10 panels across 245" to act as an entire wall treatment, as well as cover two windows.

thanks!!