Hello friends,


Foscarini Yet, a new kind of representation of crafting and artistic thinking presenting lighting in a new style and color combination which shows designer talent and mind. The lighting phenomenon was innovated and created by Studio Kairos, a leading name in the Italian designers world.


http://www.dmlights.com/en/cat/6637/0/Foscarini/yet.html

I have the guy coming out to measure for countertops tomorrow.
We got the impression from Ikea that putting in filler pieces would be quick and easy. We're finding that isn't the case...

We're installing abstrakt white and when we cut the filler pieces the edges didn't come out totally clean. I'm not talking about any major chipping. It just that the foil finish is a little jagged feeling. One of the corners pulled away a bit. The fillers are for spaces in between cabinets. After we screw them in should we caulk the seams? Is there something that will finish them? Will we be able to screw them in tight enough where any minor flaws won't be seen?

I'm panicking a bit...

Once again unclear or instructions that are lacking... It's friggin annoying. (sorry for the rant but it's inexcusable that an outfit like ikea would mess on something like this!)

The instructions only show where the bottom wire shelf goes (5th hole from the bottom). So which hole from the bottom does the middle shelf screw rail go in a Akurum cabinet?

TIA

Ikea- approved- installers just finished a week ago and now I find that the Ikea approved designer did not provide the proper opening for installing the copper apron style single bowl sink that I purchased separately and informed the designer of where he could view it and see the specs online so the appropriate cabinets etc would suffice. I am very disappointed that this is not the case and it seems I will be req'd to hire another contractor to achieve this......and I feel I already paid for the results whatever the solution turns out to be and I am also concerned that it will not look the way I had envisioned when working with the designer.

What have other consumers done in such situations?


merisea

I ordered a Rebbenes leg frame (queen) and Sultan Lade slatted bed base (queen) and I can't figure out how to attach the slats to the frame. The sets of slats don't seem like they are long enough for the frame, or like they would have anything to support them. There are two sets of slats connected by ribbons, and a small black support to go under the center of the bed, and that's it. Any idea what I am doing wrong??

Hi,

We are looking for a reliable certified IKEA installer (of MA) to help us with our home project - it includes a wall system of besta cabinets, a wardrobe and a few other small things.

IKEA store gave me a list of companies to call. I just wonder if I can hire a reliable IKEA installer, instead of dealing with a company that I don't know well.

Please recommend ... thanks a lot!

Does anyone know what you're supposed to do with the black string that 'controls' the tension on the Avsikt roll top? I have the cabinet constructed, with the roll top installed, but now what? How to control the roll top, string, etc. There is NOTHING in the instructions.

I bought the Hemnes Mirror. I have identified studs in the wall and need to measure to be sure that the studs line up with the mountings on the mirror. If I can match up with the studs, which kind of screw should I use to hang the mirror?

If they don't match up, I will have to use the drywall method.
Thanks for the help, would love to see the mirror up in all its glory!

So many questions today...

I just assembled the Perfekt white wine rack that holds 10 bottles. The catalog says it's 12 5/8" deep, but mine is 12 1/4" including the lip. What's going on here? This means that the front of it won't line up with the doors of neighboring cabinets. I can scoot it forward (it will be with some base cabs) but then the hole location for the legs won't work. The legs would be too far forward relative to the others. Again, I can re-position them by cutting off the pegs and attaching them with screws. It just seems like it shouldn't have to be this way, though, if it's listed as being 12 5/8" deep in the catalog. I found a thread that talks about wine cabs (a different version slightly) being flush with cabinet doors, so what's going on with mine?
http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/assem...-rack-fit.html

I have several sets of questions and I'm not quite finding all of the answers in other threads:

1. People who used Waterlox finish, did you apply it before or after you installed the countertop? Both sides?

2. Regarding joining two counterops into an "L" shape, I've read about NBeth's joining bolts, which I like, but we don't have a Woodcraft. What other kind of store might sell them? What other solutions are out there besides using a biscuit joiner (I really don't want to go buy one right now)? Then I'm assuming I need to caulk on top of this joint with perhaps clear silicone caulk? Or would sealing both pieces with Waterlox before joining them mean I don't need to use caulk there?

3. I've read to use silicone caulk to seal the joint between the countertop and backsplash. Did people use clear or the color of their tile?

4. Do I need caulk where the Domsjo sink rests on the wood countertop? Underneath the sink lip itself or along its visible outer edge where things might collect between it and the wood? Or both? And did people use white to match the sink or clear for the wood?

Thanks in advance!

I'm hanging 2 Akurum wall cabinets with Nexxus sliding doors (48" x 30") and want to stack them one on top of the other. I've installed the top cabinet and attached the sliding doors. I was about to install the suspension rail to hang the lower cabinet when I realized that the right sliding door protrudes above and below the actual cabinet frame. I initially thought I could stack them without any space between the upper and lower cabinets.

How much space should I allot between the bottom of the upper cabinet and top of the lower cabinet so the sliding doors work? I'm hoping to make the upper and lower cabinet look as seamless as possible without a weird gap. The measurement I came up with was 7/8". Anyone have a suggestion?

Hi, I am installing a bank of four Akurum base cabinets. I am at the point where I am to attach the Faktum legs to the underside of the cabinets, but there is one problem: there are no holes! I gather that these holes are supposed to be pre-drilled, as I don't seem to have received any template for drilling them myself. Has anyone encountered this before?
I had the rest of the cabinetry installed by a contractor, and he assembled these boxes for me before he left. I've been poking around trying to see if he mixed up some parts and the pre-drilled boards ended up elsewhere, but I don't see any evidence of that.
Does anybody happen to know the specs for the width and depth of the holes if I do end up drilling them myself?
I'm new to this site, and it seems like a great resource. I tried a few searches but it doesn't appear that this issue has been addressed previously. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
-Crash

Just installed two effektiv units and cannot adjust hinges to make doors square. Also, the doors will not close all the way. Can't really understand the instructions and am kind of haphazardly adjusting the screws to no avail. Any suggestions regarding which screws to adjust? :confused:

Hi,

I know the 88" oven/micro cabinet is not supposed to be attached to a suspension rail when installed in a kitchen. But I want to notch out the back of the cabinet on one side to accommodate the rail. Here's why- if just I elongate the suspension rail for the adjacent cabinets by 4 inches, I can catch a 3rd stud and have better support. This will put it in the way of 4" of high cabinet, so I want to just let it run across that little bit. I don't think this should be a problem, but-

Has anyone tried to mount the high cabinet like this?