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Old Sep 27th, 06, 10:50 pm   #1
nicollet
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On one wall of the kitchen, there's a corner I'd like to use as a step-in pantry. Behold my attempt at rendering this corner in ASCII art:

__________________________________
II RRRRRRRRRRRR
I I
I I
I I
II
---------

The solid line at the top and the left-hand column of I's are walls. Below that column of I's, where I'm typing right now, is a doorway. The line of R's represents where the refrigerator will go, and there's another doorway to the right of that.

The middle column of I's and the row of hyphens are where I would like to construct walls of some type. They don't have to be full-fledged walls; they're just to block the view of the pantry area, won't have to hold up any shelving. (I'll attach adjustable shelving to tracks on the real walls.) Each would be about 2 feet wide and 8 feet tall.

Can someone help me think of the most practical way of constructing and attaching these walls? I'd prefer that they appear continuous with the real walls (which are unfinished now). Maybe a sheet of plywood with 1/4" drywall screwed to each side? Maybe there is even such a thing as J-bead thick enough to contain the whole sandwich on the exposed edge. Then attach to the ceiling, adjacent wall, and floor with little L-shaped brackets?

Regular framing doesn't look all that hard when they demonstrate it in my drywall book - but by making something skinnier I can squeak out a few more storage inches.

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Old Sep 27th, 06, 11:07 pm  
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Does it have to be a wall? You could use a curtain panel or something even more decorative and just hang it from eyehooks from the ceiling. That would open up all sorts of possibilities.

Are you putting a fridge cabinet over the fridge? If so, attach a cover panel to that and construct a small support to go underneath it so the bottom doesn't swing wildly.

If you're going to do a wall that you want to finish like your regular walls, though, I'd suggest conventional framing. a 2x4 wall is standard, but you could use 2x2s or 2x3s instead. The method would be the same.

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Old Sep 27th, 06, 11:45 pm  
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Woman, you are my 24-hour home improvement swami!

It never occurred to me I could use less than 2x4s for the framing. That sounds appealing.

It doesn't haaaaaave to be a wall. Actually, after I posted I had this idea: Make a wooden frame like a large screen door; stain to match the cabinets. In the openings, put plexiglas, painted on the back with the same color as the walls. Attach with L-brackets or, following your fabric concept, hang from sturdy hooks.

Another idea - I'd like to do something a little more wall-like than loose hanging fabric - get 4 STOLMEN closet posts and fabric to span them; sew a channel on each vertical edge so I could just slip the posts into the channels, set them up so the fabric is pulled tight and voila, instant room dividers!

Not doing a cabinet over the refrigerator. I decided to plan on putting some big bins or baskets up there so I can pull them down rather than rooting through on a stepladder.

I'm kinda excited about the options now. Looking forward to the day I can post my finished pictures.

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Old Sep 28th, 06, 8:11 am  
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I'd use velcro for the panels on the Stolmen rather than sewing a channel...with Velcro you can remove and wash them.

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Old Sep 28th, 06, 11:54 am  
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For a wall, including a non-loadbearing wall, one should use no less than 2x4s for framing. besides the strength factor required to simply support the weight of the sheetrock, anything less will look strangly skinny.

Another thing to worry about if using anything less than 2x4s is a wall that shakey and prone to cracks in the paint and/or molding at the joints. You would easily be able to "wiggle" that wall with little effort.

Finally, there are local codes that may specify walls to be a certain thickness (even if non-loadbearing) if built to be part of the permanent structure of the house.

If a standard wall is really something you don't want to do, others who have contributed to this topic have posted so great ideas for more temporary solutions!

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Old Sep 28th, 06, 12:12 pm  
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Here's a link to my bedroom/bath separation project. http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/view_...hallarum+oasis

If you scroll down a ways, you can see how we used 4x4's to create a frame for doors that hang from closet track. You can find unfinished single light or 10-light doors without glass. Stain to match your cabinets, then put your plexi, fabric,or other decorative panel in the opening(s). I think it would work, although the 4x4's aren't super skinny.

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Old Sep 28th, 06, 3:20 pm  
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Hey, thanks for the warning about using 2x2s to frame. I wonder how they make those skinny little walls in the IKEA displays. I actually like the look, but wouldn't want to go to the trouble of doing it only to find out it was easily wrecked. At least with a fabric wall no one will try to lean against it.

Kathy, I think your PO must have been a sister of ours! Her fixation was wallpaper, though. Up the walls, onto the ceiling, over the switchplates, onto the doors...

We too had walls full of mirrors. We had a handyman service come and take off the ones in our bedroom, which were too big for us to move. The walls didn't really get ripped up toooo bad. Ours were stuck on with blobs of black mastic, though, not liquid nails. Haven't had time to paint that room yet, so now that wall is vivid green with mauve vertical stripes (where they painted the room color behind where the mirror seams would be) and black polka dots of mastic. LOVELY.


Edited to add - I forgot to say the whole shoji screen project is neato! Very much like the kind of idea I have. How did you attach the whole thing to the ceiling?

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Old Sep 28th, 06, 4:10 pm  
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Irecall one of my DIY friends calling 2x3's "motel studs", storybeing thatcheap motels use them in their walls to save money and space.<shrug>

If you do decide to go with a 'real' wall, maybe you can fashion somethingto utilize that wall for narrow storage in the studspace? I dream of having a walkin pantry with a wall o' storage for my canned goods, brooms, etc.

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Old Sep 28th, 06, 7:47 pm  
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nicollet - my brother screwed a 1x4 into the tops of the posts, and then mounted it to the ceiling (and into the studs) with more screws. The cross-bar that's about 10" down also gives it structural support.

Funny about your PO . I guess we should all be glad there are people out there who have taste that's so bad it creates some wonderful fixer-bargains for the rest of us.

Kathy

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Old Nov 15th, 06, 9:59 am  
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As a rule I would agree with Dece9410's advice on sticking to 2x4 framing.

In two specific instances, I did otherwise with no detrimental effect. Across the end of my master bedroom, I built two side-by-side walk-in closets. To eke out every inch of storage and accomodate some Pax wardrobes, I used 2x4s on edge at 12" centers with 1/2" drywall on each side for the partition wall between the two closets. It is rock solid.

In my master bathroom, I've just constructed a bulkhead wall off the end of the vanity to resolve a lack of towel hanging space issue and provide a visual separation from the adjacent shower. I used 2x3s so that the wall had less visual "heft" than a 2x4 wall would, and again it is rock solid.

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