Snip electric cable or cut through bottom of cabinet?
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I'm putting a wall oven in a base cabinet and just realized that the power cord for it comes up through the floor and I need to figure out how to get it inside the cabinet. I think these are my choices:
(a) cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet (it's a big honking cable; the hole would need to be at least 1" in diameter)
(b) pull the cord down through the floor (I have access from the basement), feed it up, then back out through holes in the wall and the back of the cabinet.
I think I likeoption bbetter, but would need to cut off part of the cable to do it, because the last six inches are unwrapped, the ends of the wires are taped, and the whole mess is way too big to go through any of the holes. I think there would be plenty left, though; the oven has a long cable and they will easily connect even after cutting off. Also, I'm worried about the cabinet not being as strong if I cut through the bottom of it. Finally, I'm doing CAPITA legs, no toekick, so if I keep the cord through the floor, it'll be visible, and this would bug me even though you'd have to be down on the floor to see it.
Have you checked the back of your oven? Many have detachable power cords or maybe that's just dryers? Worth a check.
If not, I think Plan A would be fine. I'll leave Plan B to the judgment of those more well versed in Electrical than I.
Susan
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Doorstyle: Nexus BB...and nothing has gone wrong with that plan...
Hi there,
Whatever you do you should make sure that it conforms with the electrical code of your state. Any time you splice together wires you need to do it in a junction box, normally these are attached to studs and are contained inside the walls. I don't think it would be code anywhere to just have a 220 electrical wire popping up out of the floor like you have described.
In the junction box the wires need to be spliced together and properly capped off (not just taped together with electrical tape). Your installation guide should have pictures of what I described, but just in case I did a quick google search to find a guide that shows what I am talking about http://www.electroluxusa.com/files/u...85ESS_inst.pdf
It is always best to have some of this electrical stuff looked after by a professional electrician as any fire that results from improper wiring could void your insurance if done wrong and does not meet code.
Hmm, I've not looked at the directions but the power cable attached to the oven does not seem detachable - it's a bunch of wires in a metal hose. I had assumed the house wires would connect up to those inside the cabinet.
Good to know about Plan A. That was DH's preferred solution.
Edited to add response to Lucrezia: Thanks for the additional information. We do have electricians working on this job; they're coming back to install the appliances after I'm done with the cabinets, and they didn't say anything about the two cables (one for oven, one for cooktop) but I assume they have a plan. I guess I will go forward with cabinets and let them worry about the code issues.
Doorstyle: Nexus BB...and nothing has gone wrong with that plan...
Hi Nicollet,
You might want to call and talk to your electrician before you install your cabinets if you can and ask. It might make the most sense to get the 220 wiring done properly prior to installing your cabinets as it is harder to do when the cabinets are in place, and that makes it more expensive. Also, are the stove top and wall oven both being wired to the same 220 circuit? Or is the stove top to another 110 circuit? I don't have one of these units, again your manual might tell you what the wiring needs to be. If the stove top needs a 110 circuit is there one that runs over to where you need it to be?
If you really want to get your cabinets installed then I would go with your plab B, but I would run the cable back up through the wall and into a junction box (you can get one of these at any hardware store). Obviously you would make sure the circuit is off at your breaker box before doing any of this! I would also ask the hardware store for the proper caps for the ends of the wires. If you think you have enough wire you could trim them back the the main casing, as that will make them easier to run through the walls etc. If you are doubtful then don't, but with the circuit breaker off you could tape the loose ends together to get through the wall holes.
On the junction box you buy you will see they usually have a clamp you tighten around the wires once you run through the hole into the box (like the picture in the link I posted earlier. You would tighten the clamp around the main casing of the wire (not around the parts that have been stripped. You would want to leave at least 6 inches on the wire pulled thru the junction box to make sure you have enough lead for your electrician to wire your stove.
The junction box will need to be attached to a stud in your wall (as it can't just float free). If you already have drywall up, then look for a juntion box that is designed for renos, they are usually a little more expensive, but you don't need to rip out the drywall.
All of this is actually pretty easy to do, but is definately harder to do if a cabinet has already been installed.
The wire coming out of the floorwas for the old stove;the electricians designated that one for the new oven and put in a new one for the cooktop on a separate circuit. (That one comes out of the wall already.) Really all I wanted to know was where to drill the hole, I'm not going to have anything to do with junction boxes.
When the electricians install a junction box in the wall behind where your cabinet will go; you will need to cut a square out of the back of the cabinet panel that will match the exterior of the junction box. That way, after your cabinet is installed you and the electricians will have access to the J box fro inside the cabinet, now and in the future.
If your opening and theJboxdon't line up exactly, don't fret, it will be hidden by the stove. Also don't worry about the structural integrity of the cabinets. You could chop a 12 inch hole in the bottom and it would be just fine.
Good Luck!
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I went ahead and installed the cabinet so I could get the countertop ball rolling. I think the electriciansshould be able to cutthrough the back of the cabinet and the drywall at the same time; we know right where the studs are.
Boy, am I looking forward to being able to post "finished kitchen" pictures! I feel like this is the kitchen that ate my life!
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