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Old Mar 18th, 07, 11:39 am   #1
jgsearls
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How do I cleanly remove baseboard molding?

We're s...l...o... w ...l...y working on our bench modification re-do and I really want to be able to remove the baseboard from the wall so that I can slide my cabinets as close to the wall as possible (also need to cut off the lip that's on the back of the cabinets).

I don't want to remove all of it along the one wall because there's a good 5' that will remain exposed. Also, I'd like to be able to repurpose the baseboard that we pull off for a couple of spots where we need to fill in around the kitchen

How do I cleanly remove that baseboard from the wall?

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Old Mar 18th, 07, 12:02 pm  
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If it's nailed on with little finish nails (like mine is), you can just slide in a wide putty knife and pry it off. If it's glued, I have no idea.
Kathy

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Old Mar 18th, 07, 12:03 pm  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgsearls View Post
How do I cleanly remove that baseboard from the wall?
Get a utility knife, a scrap piece of wood and a thin prybar - I like the Stanley Wonder Bar: A hammer can be handy, too


Cut along the top edge of the baseboard - the idea is to keep the paint from pulling away from the wall where it overlaps. Then take the prybar and carefully work the straighter end into the top of the baseboard, hopefully in a place where any damage will not be noticed when the job is done. It's easier to work from the middle to the ends.

Just work the bar in with a rocking motion. If the baseboard is really stubborn, tap the crooked end of the prybar with the hammer to get a toehold behind the baseboard. Once you have a loose section, you can get more leverage by using the crooked end of the bar but put the scrap of wood between the bend and the wall so you don't dent your wall.

Work slowly and carefully along the baseboard to pry it away. If there are really stubborn nails, put the V in the end of the prybar against the nail and pry against the wood.

Once the baseboard is out, you need to get the nails out of it. Pulling them from the back does the least damage to the surface. Use a plier sort of like this: - so you can grip the nail from behind the baseboard and pull it out by "rolling" the pliers to one side.

It takes patience and time, but often you can save most or all of your baseboards and reuse them. TIP: If you are repainting, paint the baseboards before reinstalling them. Then all you'll need to do once they are up is fill nail holes and touch up the paint - a LOT easier than getting a good coat while lying on the floor.

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Old Mar 18th, 07, 12:11 pm  
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Thanks goils.

Is there a particular type of saw that might be more useful than others to be able to saw through the baseboard to the wallboard so that I can pry off the part that I'm going to remove while still leaving the 5' run that I want to remain on the wall?

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Old Mar 18th, 07, 1:13 pm  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgsearls View Post
Thanks goils.

Is there a particular type of saw that might be more useful than others to be able to saw through the baseboard to the wallboard so that I can pry off the part that I'm going to remove while still leaving the 5' run that I want to remain on the wall?
I never did find anything that would let me get a clean cut on baseboard or trim in place without damaging the wallboard above and behind it! It was a lot easier for me to take the entire baseboard off, then cut it to length and replace it.

Of course, that is not to say that a real carpenter might know of tools that would allow leaving it in place.

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Old Mar 19th, 07, 9:13 am  
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A rotozip could cut the baseboards in place, but you'd have to be very careful. Those things can be difficult to control! Practice first!

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Old Mar 19th, 07, 9:30 am  
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A rotozip could cut the baseboards in place, but you'd have to be very careful. Those things can be difficult to control! Practice first!
C.B.,
How expensive is a rotozip powerful enough to cut a 4" baseboard easily? I know my little $39 would take hours to do it.

I suspect that any tool that would make it easy would cost a lot so unless you already had it or had other uses for it, you'd be spending lots of $$$ to save a baseboard that would relatively cheap to either pull off and put back on or to replace completely. This does not sound cost-effective to me.

When we were remodeling this house, we salvaged as much of the trim as possible because we could not find any to match exactly. But we did it as I described above. If we needed to keep a length of it on a long wall, after much trial and error we found it was faster, cleaner and easier to simply take the whole thing off and cut it precisely, then replace, than trying to cut it in place. YMMV , though.

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Old Mar 19th, 07, 10:39 am  
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The AKURUM legs are set far enough back to clear most baseboards...check to see if you need to remove it at all!

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Old Mar 19th, 07, 10:45 am  
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Sorry Eva...should have been more clear. In this post, I lamented the height of my banquette and asked whether or not I needed to have legs on them. I'm taking the legs off and am resting the cabinets on a piece of cover panel.

Also, I want the cabinet to be as close to the wall as possible and I'd like to not have to route out the cover panels that I attach to the side of the cabs to have to be specially routed out to curve over the baseboard.

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Old Mar 19th, 07, 11:10 am  
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Ah...that clears it up! I was just hoping to save you from a lot of work.

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