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Old Feb 24th, 08, 10:31 am   #1
kra
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Peninsula table

I am installing a G-shape kitchen, but would like to use the peninsula portion as a table (at table height). The piece would be L-shaped, with the short end abutting the fridge, and the long end jutting out into the kitchen. I would like to have enough knee room under the longest side (D - farthest from fridge --see attachment) and the short end of the part jutting into the kitchen (A).
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Karen/Desktop/Kitchens/Peninsula.jpg[/IMG]
Questions:
What to use as bases for the short (C -not to scale) and the long ends?
Options for table top?
Ideas for storage options and access?

Thanks,
KA
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File Type: jpg Peninsula.jpg (77.2 KB, 40 views)

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Last edited by kra; Feb 24th, 08 at 10:33 am.. Reason: error
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Old Feb 24th, 08, 11:00 am   #2
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Re: Peninsula table

Hi and Welcome to IKEAFANS kra!!

What is the planned/available width of your "kitchen table" portion of the peninsula? You can do standard depth cabinets facing into the kitchen with drawers (highly recommended here), and simply add a minimum overhang of 10"-12" of unsupported stone or composite material- or supported laminate. If you can go wider, you can back up the standard 24" deep cabs with 12" deep cabs facing out to the seating area, again, adding 10-12" of overhang as above.

You could also do cabinets in long leg of the "l" and literally make a round table that joins the leg- you get a lot of surface and seating space that way without jutting out into your workspace.

Table height will require that you drop the space from counterheight, which you could achieve with cabinets on the floor or a shorter platform of 2 x 4's vs on legs/toekick. You can also simply find chairs/benches where the seat is 21" inches from the floor and continue to use counterheight for the table area. You could also leave the whole straight area counterheight and raise a "table round" on the end as a bar, which could be really cool.

Mixing counter materials is a great idea- however, yours are really close to each other, so as you assume, you need a transition to make it work- and that can be a change in height or shape. For example, if you choose to drop that area to table height, you can go with a new material/color; if you use the round end, you could make that a new color/material, regardless of height.

Fun design!

Kelly

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Old Feb 24th, 08, 12:46 pm   #3
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Re: Peninsula table

Is there a particular reason you'd like to go to table height? If not, then I'd suggest keeping the counter height and using barstools. You'll need 24" of width for each seated diner, and a minimum of 20" depth for table height or 112-15" for counterheight for knee room per person.

If you want table height, I'd consider having an actual table there...it would afford more flexibility since it could be pulled out into the open area to allow access to all sides if need be, and pushed against the wall with seating all around except for the fridge side as well.

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