[ghaeh]

Before buying the cooktop, I verified the wattage and it came out to about 28 Amps; so, I figured my 30 Amp circuit would be sufficient.

BUT the Installation manual calls for a 40 Amp 8-gauge circuit; however, that looks to me as a bit of a CYA idiotproof spec as you would have to have all four elements on high to come up to 28 A.

I have connected the cooktop and tried all four elements on Max. The breaker did not trip. The real limit is that with all four elements on Max, it's too hot to stand close to the stove.

Questions:

1. Is there something serious I'm missing by using a 30 A circuit?

2. What color Marrett connectors should I be using? Currently I'm using Red for all but the ground which seems to be more secure with a Yellow.

And yes, it's all in a junction box with proper connectors to secure the cables.

[DesignDiva]

I am not sure if you're in the US, but if you are, and you install your range with improper wiring, your insurance will likely go ballistic if you ever put in a claim that can in any way be linked to this.

Please check with your local jurisdiction and a qualified electrician to make sure you install it properly and according to code.

[Narf]

Per the NEC, continuous loads shall not exceed 80% of the maximum load. Therefore, a 30A circuit would only provide for 24A, which isn't enough for your cooktop.

A 40A circuit would provide for 32A.

This doesn't mean you can simply switch out the 30A breaker for a 40A breaker either - the wiring must be up to spec too!

[ghaeh]

continuous loads shall not exceed 80% of the maximum load

-- good to know that.

3 burners on Max gives approx 75% of 28A, i.e. 21A which is below the continuous load limit of 24A for a 30A breaker.

There are times I run 2 burners on Max to bring water to boil for pasta plus steam vegetables, but I've never run 3 burners on Max.

Definitely I'd run in 8 gauge if I was planning to run 4 burners on Max.