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Old Jun 15th, 06, 7:46 pm   #1
paminmd
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I bet I get some good info/feedback from this "thinking outside of the box" gang.


After convincing one of my - wiser- customers to forego the stock or "semi-custom" cabinet choices from the big box stores or other kitchen cabinet sellers- and instead go Ikea! I now have him thinking more creatively for countertop choices, too. He fell in love with, and bought, a matte black, double bowl, undermount,resin sink. For the past 3 months, I have been hunting down and obtaining samples of all types of countertop choices (the guy doesn't drive and is crowd-phobic- and so doesn't "shop"- so ocassionally I will run him around to look at some of my sources.). Anyway, after running myself ragged bringing tons of stone samples to him or him to them:marbles; granite, bluestone, vermont soap stone ; then the resin/plastic stuff : silestone/avonite and 1 other quartz based product I can't remember the manufacturer of; black corian. None of them worked with his sink (in his opinion). I remember having seen somehting on the net- a husband and wife team somewhere in the mid-west , that make phenolic resin tops in cool, colorful swirly designs. Then I thought of the black matte lab countertops from my chemistry classes -100 years ago.

I tracked down several manufacturers of these lab worktop products- epoxy resin and phenolic resin. I got a sample, and the epoxy resin is perfect! It is a nice, matte black, dense material, really beautiful.

Has anyone out there used epoxy resin for kitchen tops? The manufacturers say is is foodsafe when cured, fireproof, resistant to chemicals, and easily fabricated into kitchen- sized tops. I understand from the manufacturer that diamond edge blades can cut the material, but I am wondering about how well a heavy under-mount sink (heavier when filled with water & dishes) will hold in the ressin and what type of fasteners to use. Could a type of sink-clip be set during fabrication to make sink installation easier?

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks

Pam

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 7:48 pm  
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How thick is it?

Susan

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 8:38 pm  
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3/4", 1" & 1-1/4".

The 1" material is $25/sq ft. (that is$53.13 a running foot for a 25-1/2" deep countertop). The 1-1/4" is $35/sq ft - 74.35 /running foot. They charge for a cut out, for a sink or cooktop, but with good measurements and/or a template can fabricate the void when they fabricate-thus no cut out fee. It can have integral backsplash, loose splash or none at all. Another cool, though not really useful in a kitchen like it would be in a lab, is the fact that they offer an edge profile that is slightly raised - called a marine edge (prevents spills from running off the edge)

http://epoxyn.com/products.htm

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 8:56 pm  
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Marine edge is cool. The whole thing sounds cool. The reason I ask about thickness is that if you are using a thin material (i.e. the 3/4"), you'd likely need to put the countertop on top of a plywood subbase. And if so, then you could inset the rim of the undermount (is there a rim on this undermount?) into the plywood, and then lay the countertop on top. Like so:


Bigger at: http://www.ikeafans.com/images/DIYSo...004_resize.jpg



Bigger at: http://www.ikeafans.com/images/DIYSo...014_resize.jpg

Would that work?

Susan

btw , that countertop (above) is soapstone tile set with epoxy.

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 9:23 pm  
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I was under the impression that most chemistry lab tables are made of soapstone. Anyway, my family does epoxy resin floors in industrial applications. While these floors stand up to heavy machinery on a regular basis, they don't look very nice after a short period of time. Epoxy resin scratches easily, and never quite loses a slightly tacky feel to the touch. If this were for a seldom-used powder room I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't want it in my kitchen. The scratches would drive me crazy.

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 9:32 pm  
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Susan,

That's a really good idea. Thank you. I don't know how you would hide the front profile (sandwich), because unlike corian, the edge doesn't get applied - its a solid slab.

Thank you for the thoughts and the pictures.

Pam

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 9:35 pm  
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Chabuchie,

It scratches!?!? Yikes, that wouldn't be good in a kitchen. Scratching (white) is why we discounted the black corian as a possibility.

Thank you

Pam

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 9:37 pm  
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It definitely scratches. Soapstone will scratch as well, but not nearly as badly. It's a pretty durable material. I think when you install it, it's a grey but it develops a black color with time. You can hurry that black along by rubbing it with oil.

Oh, and epoxy floors need waxing too.

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 9:43 pm  
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Soapstone scratches, dings and wears with time. Some types more than others. The mineral oil will cover the scratches (i.e., they won't be white), but deep ones will still show. BUT (and it's a big but), you can sand it all out and start over fresh. It's a beautiful material.

Susan

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Old Jun 15th, 06, 9:46 pm  
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Thanks again Chabuchie,

Ithink the epoxy resin worktopsmust be different than commercial liquid application of epoxy floor coatings. These tops are made under high heat and high pressure. They are made specifically for lab work & I can't imagine a sticky or tacky work surface would work in alab. But I don't know. Thats why I was asking here!

I have a sample - I'll try to scratch or mar it.



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