anticipating space next to wall for new 170 Deg hinge
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But I am not sure how big a spacer I need to put between the wall and the base cab. The cab isat the end of a wall and the side wall (perpendicular to the back of the cab) has a door opening about 12 inches or so out from where the wall meets the cab.
Any ideas? I would think 2 inches would be enough but I worry that I'll come short.
Excellent drawing. This is exactly what I was thinking, but I initially wasn't worried about blocking the doorway. I was thinking of using it as sort of an advantage by opening the left door into the opening. I'll attach a picture.
But now I'm thinking that it's a bad idea because since this cab is in the bathroom, I should allow the cab doors to open so that it doesn't obstruct the doorway. The problem is that I don't think I have 4 inches to spare let alone 14!
What's the general consensus on having the cab door open only when the bathroom door is opened?
I'll attach a picture of the room, but ignore the shapes on the right as I was trying to get an idea where the tub and loo would be. Ikea should make a bathroom planner.
Does the door open into the bathroom, or out of? If the latter, you'll gain a few inches of clearance because of the frame inset. The other thing is that you may not need to open the door all the way to get the pullouts to work. When the ikea doors are open 90 degrees, they pretty much line up with the cabinet frame, not obstructing the opening. You probably should ask tengberg how wide the doors really need to open to allow the drawers to work.
If the bathroom door must be open to open the cabinet, it kind of limits what you can store in the cabinet :-). Of course, you've got the drawers and the below sink area to work with.
Looks like the door opens inward (which would be normal). You'll need a few inches of clearance for the cabinet door handles, and you may want some sort of pad on the handle or on the door to keep the handles from banging into the door.
the door opens inward but away from the cabinets. What I don't understand is why i need 170 deg hinges when the normal 130deg hinges should clear the requisite 90deg needed to line up to the cab. i'm sure i'm missing something : )
Hmmm, i hadn't though of handle protection. *sigh* yet another stick in the cog of design.
You could use blum 153 degree zero protrusion hinges. That is what i was going to use, but got a too good deal on 170 degree hinges, 50 cents each. and since space was not an issue for me. With the 153 hinge, you can slide out the draw when the door is open 90 degrees.
nice! Thank you both for all of your help. 7 months of planning my bath and kitchen and I'd never heard of zero protrusion hinges. Often I know that there must be a solution out there, but not being familiar with all the vernacular and lingo is frustrating. Here's a blurb i just found on the 155 deg blum hinges
"Blum’s new CLIP top zero protrusion hinge is particularly suitable for larder units and the advantages are obvious. The hingehas a maximum opening angle of 155° which affords easy access to interiors. But even if doors are only opened 90°, inner pull-outs – mounted to 3-mm high mounting plates – can still be fully extended. There is no need to pack out carcase profiles. Consequently, this new hinge does not only mean less work for furniture manufacturers but also optimal ergonomics for users."
Where would I get the mounting plates? and more importantly what do I mount on it!The text says the pullouts... i think? :?
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