[yankeelawyer]

I need a 6-inch base cabinet to fill part of an 8-inch gap b/ w a blind corner and a range. I tried to find one at HD but was told there is no such thing (another IKEAFAN apparently got one there, but the salesperson insisted I was wrong).

Does anyone know of a company that makes a 6-inch frameless base cab that is 24 inches deep? I have a pullout that requires this size cab. Ideally, I need to find something that can be shipped quickly b/c my kitchen is being installed next week.

Alternatively, can I mod a 12-inch cab simply by cutting 6 inches from the side, and then use particleboard scews or the like to attach the side to the newly-shrunk cabinet? I searched this board and saw a number of threads, but the only one on point suggested that you have to cut the cab down the middle and reassemble it using a biscuit joint. But I am wondering why you can't just cut the sides and reassemble it using screws and then re-drill holes at the bottom for feet.

Thanks!

ps door size is not an issue because I am either going to cut down a drawer or get one made custom (doors are Rubrik SS)

	W definition W is a wall cabinet designation, as in W18, can be a stand-in for Wide, or when followed by a / stands for With.

[Kayla]

if you absolutely need a cab then i would go for the cutting down idea. especially for such a small can i don't think you'll have any issues with using screws... i've done it do bigger

[torrus]

Cutting down a 12" base cabinet is the way to go - this preserves the pre-drilled holes for hinge placement (if required). Use particle board screws to attach the base and rails on the cut side. Also, I would place some solid blocking between the blind corner cabinet and the 6" base so that the two cabinets are tied together.

[yankeelawyer]

Originally Posted by torrus

Also, I would place some solid blocking between the blind corner cabinet and the 6" base so that the two cabinets are tied together.

I was planning to have the modified side adjacent to the blind cab (rather than the range, from which it wouldn't get much support). What do you mean by "solid blocking"? Apologies if the question is dumb; I am a little construction-challenged : ).

Also, I won't need hinge holes for this particular pullout unit but would like to preserve them in case I ever decide to change it for something else that requires a regular hinged door instead.

[torrus]

If you are filling an 8" space with a 6" cabinet I would place a solid block (up to 2" thick) front and back between the blind corner and the small cabinet...this allows for space between the cabinets (so that doors/drawers can open easily) - the filler is then placed between the two, but has no structural load.

[yankeelawyer]

Thanks! I had forgotten about my 2 inches of filler, duh. Good idea re the blocks. We will definitely try that.
Hopefully we will be able to post pics soon!

[B.S.]

Would some type of wine bottle holder fit in here? I realize one would fit physically....but if it would look appropriate in the spot you are dealing with it might be worth considering. You could custom fabricate one easily.

B.S.

[stephcheff]

Is it possible to use a 6" rev-a-shelf pullout here, and cover it with a 6"x30" drawer front? Check out [url=http://www.cabinetparts.com]. It would be nice to have a pullout next to the range-- you could put oils and spices there. Maybe this doesn't work because you are at the end of a cabinet run, though...

[wendy2]

We are planning an open "filler" in our kitchen to use as an open front tray cabinet. We would like to use the sides of the adjacent cabinets as the sides of the tray cabinet, filling in the top and bottom. Are there any examples of similar modifications?

In our case this will need to be an open box as it is in a corner.

I hope it is ok to add on to this post. The projects sound similar.

[Kayla]

it's fine to piggy back when the question is similar, you might not see the same traction, but you're allowed

to attach the top part is relatively easy since it won't be bearing weight (is this space between a cabinet and a wall?)

i'm thinking that a cleat on the wall and some blocking under the cabinet would probably do the trick. are you going to leave the back open?