[jgsearls]

This week! This week! We're going to order our cabinets this week! I'm so excited (can you tell?)

Anyway, in trying to get as much ordered as I can in one fell swoop - how much of things like toe kick, filler and cover panels should I order? Obviously, enough toe kick to go along all the cabinets and cover panels to cover all the exposed sides BUT how much extra should I order to make sure that I have stuff to take care of gaps and such?

Also, if I have something like a 30"H wall cab on either side of a 24" H wall cab, do I get a cover panel for the sides of the two 30"H wall cabs?

[DesignDiva]

Toekicks come in (I think) 8 foot lengths, so you would want to add up all the measurements and then go up to make it a multiple of 8 feet.

Yes, you would want a cover panel anywhere the side of a cabinet would be exposed. I am assuming you are not ordering white or birch doors, though. The cabinet frames come in white or birch and would match those doors so there would be no need for cover panels.

For your scenario of the shorter middle wall cabinet, a single cover panel could be cut in half and trimmed down to fit the exposed side. No need to use an entire cover panel between.

[vmole]

Toe kicks are 88 inches (just put mine in yesterday). Be careful about just adding up the total required length and dividing by 88, though. Figure out how long each run needs to be, and then figure out how to piece them optimally from 88" pieces. For example, if you have two 6 feet runs and one 3 feet run, you need three pieces, even though by total length you could get by with two.

[jgsearls]

Ok..but what about filler? It seems like I need it (duh ) but how much should I order or will the Ikean be able to help me with that?

[GardenOfDarwin]

You'll have to look at your plans and see where there are areas that will need to be filled, then calculate the amount of filler needed from there. Don't forget the "oops" factor, and add some for the aforementioned issue with needing continuous lengths, then double that for safety's sake. It's not an absolute science, unfortunately.

Post your plans on this thread, and let us take a look...maybe we can help you work through it.

Susan

[gwen]

Eva -

Your reply to this thread started me wondering . . .

If we are planning a Lidingo white kitchen with a white interior frame - are the cover panels necessary?

Up until now, I was convinced I had read something that said the cover panel and frame exterior were different finishes or tones of white. I had been worried about it looking "unfinished" without.

But if we don't need them - YEAH! It saves a few inches that we can use for other things!

G.

[vmole]

FWIW: In our Adel white kitchen, I'm putting in cover panels at the end of a run where the sides of the upper and lower cabs are completely exposed and directly in view from the dining room and living room. I'm not putting in panels along the tall pantry where it joins the cabinets, nor where there is a small amount exposed on either side of the range hood, nor where the cabs rise over the sink. It just didn't seem worth the trouble, and I needed the space.

[ourmoneypit]

jgsearls wrote:

Also, if I have something like a 30"H wall cab on either side of a 24" H wall cab, do I get a cover panel for the sides of the two 30"H wall cabs?

Our configuration has height variations:


The centre block is a custom shelf bracketed by two 24"w/30"h cabinets. Then we put in unaltered standard end panels, followed by the 12"w/30"h wall cabs lowered to the height of the 39"h corner wall cabs. To hide the rear gap created by the hanging rail, DS cut end panels to fit from the top of the 12"w to the top of the 39"h corner cabs. This piece was cut in depth so it is flush with the cabinet frame.

Now that the doors are up, it looks just fine:


Martine

[ourmoneypit]

jgsearls wrote:

cut, snip...Obviously, enough toe kick to go along all the cabinets and cover panels to cover all the exposed sides BUT how much extra should I order to make sure that I have stuff to take care of gaps and such?

If you place your legs at the standard spot, the toekick pieces running from the front of cabinets back to the wall (ie, along the side of a base cabinet) need to be just under 21.5" long if you are butting your end, or just over 22" if it's a visible corner and you need to do a 45 degree angle joint. They run inset just a little bit from the side of the cabinets, so the front toekick measurement is the cabinet width (or less 1/4" when at the end of a bank of base cabinets).

It's not as simple as adding up the total and dividing by the length of the toekick pieces (88") because you could end up with a piece you need whole comprised of lots of little leftover bits. Look at it as a puzzle. List out all the lengths you need then spend some time with your calculator figuring out where you will get all your pieces from.

I figured I needed 4 toekicks, A, B, C & D. From A I got 4 pieces 21.5" long, from B, I got two 36" and a 16" etc. We had about 2" left over and no worries about "where will we get piece xyz???"

[ourmoneypit]

gwen wrote:

Eva -

Your reply to this thread started me wondering . . .

If we are planning a Lidingo white kitchen with a white interior frame - are the cover panels necessary? cut, snip...

Our kitchen is Applad white, and is the same finish/color as the Lidingo and Stat. We used cover panels only where we needed fillers or end panels for the light rail. We didn't use one on the end of our peninsula, and it's the first thing you see walking into the kitchen.

Judge for yourself how it looks; we find it's just fine.


Sorry my responses haven't been able to be more timely, but we're right in the thick of it and weekends are spent working on the kitchen.

Martine