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Old Mar 23rd, 09, 8:09 pm   #1
angryhippie
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Waterlox vs. Watco vs. Formby's

I am trying to figure out what to use to finish my new wood coutertop. I've read a lot of good things on here about Waterlox, but it looks like it's hard to get around here and from what I've read it's actually a varnish. I was wondering if anyone has used Watco (which appears to be available at Lowes) or Formby's Tung Oil. What is everyone's experience with each product, and what is prefered? Should I be concerned about Waterlox being a varnish?

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Old Mar 23rd, 09, 9:33 pm  
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Re: Waterlox vs. Watco vs. Formby's

I just used Waterlox on my new maple counters and I love the look. It does take some time (we have done 5 coats and lightly sanded in between to get a super smooth finish).

I don't know about the other brands you mention. We did use 100% tung oil from a wood working supply store to finish a small section of counter next to the range so that we can cut right on it. It looks great too, but will be a bit more maintenance.

Did you check the waterlox site to see if any local stores have it? I was surprised to find my neighborhood hardware store had it stocked.
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Old Mar 23rd, 09, 11:29 pm  
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Re: Waterlox vs. Watco vs. Formby's

Quote:
Originally Posted by runpdx View Post
I just used Waterlox on my new maple counters and I love the look. It does take some time (we have done 5 coats and lightly sanded in between to get a super smooth finish).

I don't know about the other brands you mention. We did use 100% tung oil from a wood working supply store to finish a small section of counter next to the range so that we can cut right on it. It looks great too, but will be a bit more maintenance.

Did you check the waterlox site to see if any local stores have it? I was surprised to find my neighborhood hardware store had it stocked.
Yeah, the closest place is almost 20 miles away. I guess that's nothing compared to how far I drove to Ikea, but it's still not like running up the street.

I have a kitchen island that I've been debating using to cut on, but I'm still torn about it.
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Old Mar 23rd, 09, 11:44 pm  
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Re: Waterlox vs. Watco vs. Formby's

I would stay away from 100% Tung Oil (chances are that you can't buy it anyway). Pure oil finishes, like linseed oil and tung oil, take forever to cure. And I mean months or years, not days or weeks. That's why most products that claim to be oils (like Watco) are actually wiping varnishes that contain oils and dryers.

If memory serves, Waterlox, Watco, and Formby's are all wiping varnishes. Finding a true oil finish these days is hard (and not generally desireable) but the marketing folks at these companies seem to want you to think you're getting an oil finish. There are oils used in some of these finishes, but some contain no oils at all.

That said, a wiping varnish is going to be a fine looking finish for your counters and won't require more care than any other finish. So that's probably what you want anyway.

Andy - Newark, CA
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Old Mar 24th, 09, 12:41 am  
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Re: Waterlox vs. Watco vs. Formby's

Back in my youth, I worked as a professional woodworker, and remain something of a hobbyist, so, voice of experience: Formby's is garbage. Don't use it on anything you value; it does not penetrate well and is chemically reactive, particularly to plastic and rubber containing VOCs (think small appliance rubber feet).

Watco is excellent for most wood items, good penetration and not very reactive, but I would not use on a surface that might get direct food contact, particularly acidic foods that might leach some chemicals. It also requires periodic recoating to maintain waterfastness.

I don't have experience with Waterlox.

I used GymSeal acrylic floor sealer on the Numerar countertop that went under my cooktop, and it is completely resistant to spills and hasn't reacted to anything yet (after eight months in use). It does create a very glossy finish, and will go slightly "satin" if scrubbed hard, but this can be polished out smooth again with a little car buffing compound on a cotton ball. I would not set a hot pot on it, but for all other uses, it seems nonreactive and impervious.
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