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Old Feb 3rd, 11, 9:34 am   #1
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L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

Hi Everyone.....I have been trying to find more info on a wooden counter top that goes into an L shape. Seems to me I read somewhere?? that you should absolutely not use glue on the L shaped joint because the grains run in opposing runs. Is this correct?

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Old Feb 3rd, 11, 12:33 pm  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

And the wood needs to be able to expand and contract.

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Old Feb 3rd, 11, 5:21 pm  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

I can't wrap my head around the fact that the L joint is not attached to each other in any way. Can you get them close enough to each other? Would these two cuts both be done from the top of the board?
Is there any problem with splinters from cutting?

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Old Feb 3rd, 11, 11:21 pm  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

You can't use anything that is going to "bind" the seam, so metal mending plates, butterfly bolts and the like are completely out. You could use wood glue or something like it, but quite frankly, you're likely to end up with a broken glue joint once the 2 pieces begin to move around.

Your best bet is to use a biscuit joiner and silicone caulk to make and seal the seam. The biscuits keep the 2 pieces level and intact, and the silicone works like wood glue, but is flexible enough to allow the wood to expand and contract without breaking the seal.

You can use clamps temporarily to join the pieces and "make" the seam, but once everything sets up, you should remove the clamps and allow the seam to live on its own.

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Old Feb 4th, 11, 9:45 am  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

Thanks Chuck.....I am printing out all this info to hand to DH who tends to "wing things".
The one or two inch piece I will have in the corner - is it attached in any way?
I've also read something about a resulting V groove when you join pieces together. Does the same imply with the L shape?If so how does one rectify?
I read the Waterlox info (mega pages). They speak of each coat drying for 24hrs. and to properly dry placing a fan in a window (blowing out) and another window in the room open and on and on. Well winter in southern Ontario does not deem this too possible. Do people ACTUALLY do this?

I can't imagine how these beautiful counter tops would have turned out without all the advice I have gotten and read from Ikeafans...Thank Goodness they exist!!!

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Old Feb 4th, 11, 11:53 am  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

Yeah, Waterlox stinks until it cures: you totally want ventilation. The ideal thing would be to heat the room while venting it like crazy. Just in case you feel like paying the power company a million zillion dollars! Sorry.

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Old Feb 4th, 11, 7:47 pm  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

Thing is waterlox info doesn't even mention the smell. They just say that to "properly" cure the finish you need to do all this ventalation. Wow....the deeper you the more complicated this gets! All I want is to it right and get the best finish from the start..ugh!

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Old Feb 4th, 11, 11:33 pm  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

On a summer day outside I hardly notice the smell. Inside on cold winter rainy days (we don't get snow and ice), you notice it. Is it the worst thing in the world? No, but very much there.

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Old Feb 5th, 11, 8:51 am  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

Alright I get the point....our weather sucks (and it does) and yours doesn't. You "can" leave a window open and not pay the price...we will leave a window open (for awhile) and we WILL pay the price.

Ummm, I wonder if anyone adds that cost into their wooden counter tops????

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Old Feb 5th, 11, 3:18 pm  
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Re: L shaped butt joint in wooden counter tops

We did ours in the middle of winter in Massachusetts. We set it up in the basement, and we did open a window and have a fan. Yes, it got very cold, but it was in the basement. We had it for almost 5 years before we moved out. It stayed perfect

Kristen

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