[cflann]

We built an Ikea kitchen a couple of years ago, and while I love the hardware/drawers/doors, what I don't like is the toe kicks. Spills always seem to get under them, and I don't like having to pop them off and clean under.

So in our next kitchen, I would prefer to use the type of cabinet carcass that is solid all the way down to the floor so that you can run your flooring up the toe kick.

Are there any reasonably priced, commonly available cabinet carcasses that will support Ikea drawers and door fronts?

Thanks!

[Chuck]

Most people look on that feature of IKEA toe kick as a benefit, not a drawback.

But why deny yourself of the benefits of IKEA that you do enjoy much by installing the toe kicks in a "non-permanent" way? You could use an adhesive on the legs and blocks, or some well placed screws through the toe kicks and into the blocks. Then you install your floor in a way to seal the seam, and, voila, no more junk under your cabinets.

If your worried about height issues because of the thickness of your floor, you can either fill in with a piece of toe kick that your rip down to the size of the gap, or make your own toe kick out of cover panel, custom cut to the height you need. And because you're burying that bottom seam, you can make most (if not all) of your toe kick out of a single piece of panel.

[cflann]

Thanks for your reply, but I'm not interested in installing flooring over the removable toekicks, however securely fastened.

I would still really like to know if there are any other types of cabinets that could be used as-is with the Ikea drawers/doors. Is it possible?

[Lizbethcat]

We just took out a kitchen that you want. It was installed in 1988 as mid grade cabinets. The whole bottoms of the cabinets were degraded so bad we couldn't reuse them, even though we had planned to. Water from mopping and spills had wicked under and been soaked up by the toe kick and the cabinet sides even though they had been sealed.

Needless to say I love the idea of being able to remove the kicks and clean under the cabinets. If I didn't want to do that I would just silicone them in place.

[Harpy]

While I tend to agree with the others that this seems kind of backwards, you might check with Scherrs. Most people do it the other way and use their doors on ikea boxes, but they do also sell cabinets and they do have the drilling patterns for the ikea doors, so possibly they could do something for you.

EDIT Incidentally, in my current kitchen when the PO had the appliances replaced, they put in a kind of flexible rubber or plastic toekick over what was there. It looks fine once it's been glued in place. Something like that might be an easier solution. Also, although most folks here prefer the legs, people do install ikea cabinets on frames made from 2 x 4s or whatever, too, which would let you put in your permanent toekicks as well.

	PO definitions PO can mean Pull-Out, Previous Owner (often when stated with vengeful words), and/or Pissed Off.

[personalshopper]

Wouldn't it be easier to pull the cabinets out and build your own 2x4 recessed base for the cabinets to sit on? Just get rid of the Ikea feet.

[Abandon]

Originally Posted by personalshopper

Wouldn't it be easier to pull the cabinets out and build your own 2x4 recessed base for the cabinets to sit on? Just get rid of the Ikea feet.

Exactly. Just build a box 20" deep and whatever the length of your cabinets, level it, screw it to the subfloor, tile up to it, then screw the bottom of the cabinets to that.

That's the method I used for my peninsula cabinets and I honestly like that better than the feet and toekick that I used on the perimeter cabinets.

[cflann]

Some great advice, thank you!

[Kayla]

We start work on a kitchen next week where the people had retrofit 80s Oak face frame cabinets with IKEA drawer fronts and doors. They reused their old drawers and all the other hardware. The work arounds they created to accommodate the hinges were remarkable. And horrifically ugly. I have pictures somewhere; I'll post them if I think of it.

Oh, and I agree about building the base under the circumstances set by the OP . You'll have to shim quite a bit, depending on how much the floor falls over the cabinet run.

	OP OP means Original Poster