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Hello everyone. I had posted a couple months ago and got great help from everyone.
To make a long story short, we are renovating an old farm house in upstate NY and we decided to try and re-use the original cabimnets and mix them with Ikea sink and other cabs. Well, we took the day off Friday to meet the Silestone guy to make his template and our contractor messed up and let's just say the old cabinets are a total disaster.
We decided to cut our losses and start from scratch doing 100% Ikea and picked Stat white. The thing is we are under a time crunch cuz we have to get delivery of Silestone soon due to a promotion.
Anyway, we got a new contractor who helped me design this plan using Stat. We went to Ikea Elizabeth today and placed a "hold" order we plan to pick up later this week when we drive back up.
Looking for any in put on the deisgn (we are kepping it simple) or choice of cabinets (i.e the sizes or the drawers vs. doors etc.)
Some comments:
1. we already bought our applicances and they are stainless steel.
2. the fridge sticks a little (we didn't pay extra for cabinet depth) but our new contractor says he will create a "built in look" using cover panels, a 17" over fridge cab (the 19" didn't come in 24" depth) and beadboard.
3. We don't cook a lot so aren't going for a vent right now (we have french doors at the end. Our plan is to put open shelving on the wall with the range and maybe one day add wall cabs there.
4. The contractor suggested matching the wall cabs widths to the base cab widths on the sink side. But it seemed like we couldn't really use glass front doors because they didn't come in the 24" and 21" size.
5. we're thinking of using matte nickel oval knobs on doors, and somekind of handle on the drawers. (forget the name).
6. The planner was weird. doesnt like my cabinet on the range side on the left (gives me an exclamation point).
7. the counte run with the sink will stick out by that little wall openin thing but the new contractor says he will extend it so the counter hits the new "wall"
Thanks in advance for your help!
On the range side you'll want a little filler between the drawers and the wall so the drawer won't scrape the wall when opening. A deco strip is usually perfect for this kind of filler. If that door/doorway/opening (french doors?) has a frame or moulding around it, you may need a little more filler so the drawer will clear it.
Am I correct in thinking the 15" pullout is for trash? Sometimes it functions better to have the trash on one side of the sink and the dishwasher on the other. If you put the trash pullout on the other side of the sink, then move the dishwasher right up next to the sink, you will have room for a big 36" drawer cabinet on the other side of the dishwasher. I think drawers are so much more functional than shelf cabinets and would recommend them wherever possible.
Having the widths of the uppers match the widths of the bases is just personal preference. Me? I would much rather see equal sized doors across the uppers, regardless of the base widths. Especially irrelevant IMHO since one of the bases is a dishwasher. Use the glass ones if you like them (keeping in mind that whatever you put in will be visible).
You may want cover panels on the sides of the wall cabinets flanking the window.
I originaly put the trash pull out next to the fridge but some friends who were over were like "don't put garbage near the fridge" etc.
Yeah the contracter said he'll need some filler pieces to ensure clearance. i didn't put them in the plan.
i did forget about cover panels for hte sides of the uppers.
i will ask my bf what he thinks about your idea of all same size uppers on that wall.
Thanks!
Just realized that maybe the D/W can't go next to the sink because I think the contractor said the DW needs a cabinet on either side to support the Silestone counter, and the double Domsjo sink doesn't get any counter.
For the dishwasher you would use an end panel for support.
Have you considered moving the range to the sink wall and swapping it with the fridge?
About the uppers, I'm with Gloria in that they don't have to be the same size as the base ones. I honestly don't think that folks compare uppers and lowers. Me personally, I just look at the wall ones separately. Even looking at them separately, having them different sizes is my preference since function wins out.
Hi Turnip! I like your layout... (I am biased though- if you moved the fridge onto a third wall, you'd pretty much have my layout! We're planning open shelving on the range wall too.)
I agree with previous posters- don't worry about the wall cabs matching the base, pick something that is functional and looks good on its own. Also, IMO, I don't like the very narrow wall cabs all in a row, they look squeezy to me. I would much rather have 3 wider doors than 4 narrow.
Oh, and last fun idea-- if you have the space, you could pull out your base cabs a couple of inches on the sink side to get extra deep counters-- it would make the fridge stick out less, and people who have them seem to love them.
Hi Turnip! I like your layout... (I am biased though- if you moved the fridge onto a third wall, you'd pretty much have my layout! We're planning open shelving on the range wall too.)
I agree with previous posters- don't worry about the wall cabs matching the base, pick something that is functional and looks good on its own. Also, IMO, I don't like the very narrow wall cabs all in a row, they look squeezy to me. I would much rather have 3 wider doors than 4 narrow.
Oh, and last fun idea-- if you have the space, you could pull out your base cabs a couple of inches on the sink side to get extra deep counters-- it would make the fridge stick out less, and people who have them seem to love them.
Good luck!
Hey Thanks for these ideas everyone!
I thnk we are giving up on the glass doors for now...... we didn't love the Stat glass doors in person (I think the Lili glass doors were nicer). So I think we are ok with the wall cabs in the "matchng sizes" in my orig layout.
Some open questions are still:
1. Trash pullout: In between fridge and sink or in between sink and D/W?
2. Dishwasher on end run. Our new contractor didn't like that idea, even though i've read the solution with cover panel on here, I don't mind the way it is now in bewteen 2 cabs. So as of now i'm tempted to leave it where it is.
3. Whether to swap the 21" base with 1 drawer/door to more drawers. I kind of like the look with the former it seems more balanced but am not an expert on storage.
4. Interesting idea Mad had of swapping range and Fridge. Our goal is to make it less obvious it's sticking out, and we thought by putting it at the far end near the french doors as you look from the far end of the dining room (the empty room across) it would be less obvious. Also, I am paranoid about having the range so close to a wall! but I'll check it out in the planner.
5. Extro deep counters..... hmmmm. never heard of that. I uess we'd be talking about only like 3". more $ for silestone but interesting. i wonder if there are any pic of that.
Turnip, you can have Lidi glass doors with Stat cabinets. Dulci did it and it looks great. Remember, IKEA is a component system and you can pretty much do what you want.
On the swapping and wanting the fridge to look built in, well you can do that on the other wall. Chuck did that for my install and it looks good. Take a look at it in my gallery and/or blog. I also have a pic of the over the fridge cabinet being built forward so it ends with the front of the fridge.
1. Trash pullout: In between fridge and sink or in between sink and D/W?
I'd definitely vote for it on the opposite side of the sink from the DW...much more functional when processing dishes, since you can have the DW and trash open at the same time.
2. Dishwasher on end run. Our new contractor didn't like that idea, even though i've read the solution with cover panel on here, I don't mind the way it is now in bewteen 2 cabs. So as of now i'm tempted to leave it where it is.
Quote:
3. Whether to swap the 21" base with 1 drawer/door to more drawers. I kind of like the look with the former it seems more balanced but am not an expert on storage.
I don't think you can do external 21" drawers, possibly internal ones behind the door. Anything but the wire baskets!
Quote:
4. Interesting idea Mad had of swapping range and Fridge. Our goal is to make it less obvious it's sticking out, and we thought by putting it at the far end near the french doors as you look from the far end of the dining room (the empty room across) it would be less obvious. Also, I am paranoid about having the range so close to a wall! but I'll check it out in the planner
I've attached a plan swapping them around. I'm not crazy about it, though...I would like to see more space between the sink and range. You could move the sink to the wall where the range is in your plan...I've attached that plan here, too.
We won't move the sink to the other wall because 1) we already moved the plumbing to that wall because 2) we wanted the sink by that window.
But I am curious about the 1st plan Eva attached with the fridge on the other side because it gives us a pantry.....
I'm not sure what the Prefekt shelves are for...... just storage? glasses?
Anyway.....I think we're probably going to incorporate some of these ideas into the original plan I posted. I made some tweaks here to chane the upper walls to all be in increments of 15" and the option of having the glass doors if we want. Assuming the bf agrees, the only open decisions are:
1. 15" pullout with trash to the left or right of the sink?? (I wasn't sure what you meant Eva about having both open at the same time. I think you were voting for trash to the right of the skink, and DW to the left of the sink, though we'll have that other 15" base in bewteen the sink and DW still. ) I like it to the right of sink but is it ok to have trash next to fridge?
2. For other 15" base (non pullout).... 1 drawer or 3/4 drawer? i like the asesthetics of 1 drawer but people on here seem to say drawers are better (we do have a bunch on the other side though).
3. The new version of the uppers all in 15" increments or the original version matchin the base (I think everyone on here already agreed to ignore matching the bases and go with all the same size uppers).
I'm attaching the revised plan I made (call it "NEW") and jpgs to show "ORIG" vs. "NEW"
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