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Old Oct 7th, 07, 1:02 am   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

This seems to be a common question, so I thought I'd post it as a separate thread that can be found with a simple search, looking for words such as "pronomen" "butcherblock" and "stain". And truth be told, I didn't do most of the finishing work, none of the staining and maybe half of the waterloxing, the wife did much of it.

You can see almost finished pictures of the kitchen here:

Picasa Web Albums - Archana - Kitchen remodel

Before staining, I recommend that you sand the countertop, preferably with an orbital or mouse type sander that won't damage the wood. I started with 120 grit and finished with 200 grit.

The countertop is Pronomen Beech, stained with a mix of Olympic Dark Walnut (80%) and a Minwax Mahogany (20%). We used a small measuring cup to measure the two oil-based stains into a canning jar after testing multiple colors individually and not liking what we saw. I personally prefer applying thinner coats of stain so I don't have to go back and wipe up the excess. Applied with a lint-free rag, wearing vinyl gloves to keep the hands clean (when we remembered to put them on).

One caveat - the ends stain darker than top surface. Applying a wood conditioner for porous woods helps. Make sure you stain a few inches in on the bottom side of the countertop as well.

Click for larger version
How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop 


Though we did not apply two coats, I would recommend a second coat to get the stain deeper into the wood. Nicks won't show as easily...

After applying the stain, wait a few days. On my test pieces, Waterlox seemed to seal better on the piece that I let dry for 4 days vs. the one that dried for 2 days.

Waterlox was applied in the garage in the morning and late evening. The weather wasn't terribly warm, so we had time to make sure the coats were nice and even before they started drying. The grain may raise up in a few places. Lightly use a fine (200+) grit sandpaper and sand it by hand. Too much sanding, which is any mechanical sanding, and you'll likely need to restain.

My technique for using Waterlox was to pour a small quantity onto the counter and use a rag to smooth it out. Always try to work in the direction of the grain of the wood. Long, smooth, strokes will give the best finish.

How do you know if you have enough Waterlox on the countertop? You'll notice a glossy sheen and water will bead up without problem. I think all pieces of our countertop received at least 4 coats, some received 6.

Click for larger version
How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop 


I don't really have many pictures of the installation... though there are lots of threads out there on that topic. As you see in the next pic, the countertop does span the dishwasher. I purchased a biscuit joiner ($100) and polyurethane glue to butt the two pieces together. Use wood glue instead, it should be strong enough and it doesn't foam and push the pieces apart. To further support the span, I used four mending plates (heavy duty ones!). The joint doesn't even flex when I sit on it. And the biscuit joiner? Very easy to use.

Click for larger version
How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop 


Click for larger version
How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop 


The end result? Take a look at the website linked above. It's been two months and they are pretty much as good as new, except where I dropped a cover panel, corner first. Thankfully the Minwax stain pen took care of that pretty well and no one has noticed the dent.
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Old Oct 7th, 07, 10:18 am   #2 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Wow! Those look gorgeous - so rich and yummy! Nice job!

Kristen
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Old Oct 7th, 07, 11:26 am   #3 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Thank you for posting this!
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Old Oct 7th, 07, 5:29 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Very rich looking countertops.

Thanks so much for sharing with us.
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Old May 11th, 08, 7:33 am   #5 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Hi Tomkist,

I know it has been awhile since you posted this and wondering how the counters are holding up?

I am thinking of possibly following your steps below?

Thanks
Deb
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Old May 11th, 08, 10:52 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Any issues with the mending plates, which might be too stiff and not allow for the needed expansion/contraction of the tops as they are exposed to water, humidity, etc.?
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Old May 12th, 08, 11:49 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

I think the staining and attachment is a mixed result. I have had no issues with buckling, movement, etc. Structurally, everything seems to be as sound as the day it was installed. The joint is directly above the dishwasher and I sit on it (~200lbs of me) occasionally - no issues. (Note that the dishwasher is backed by a row of cabinets, so there is support for the countertop on three sides of the dishwasher)

If I had to do it all over again, I don't know if I would stain the countertops a dark color. My wife and I don't baby the counters and aren't anal about cleaning up after ourselves, so there are a number of blemishes that show as dull spots, and a couple spots where we dropped something or otherwise scratched the surface. Small dings go away with a stain pen (mostly on edges where I bash into them) and the dull spots are just dull spots. I suspect that a new coat of waterlox would probably return the surface to almost new condition. A lighter color countertop probably wouldn't show all the imperfections nearly as well.
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Old May 15th, 08, 12:01 pm   #8 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Thanks so much for the honest update.

I was researching Waterlox last night and on their site it says you can just reapply without sanding to bring back orginal finish.

Deb
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Old May 21st, 08, 12:26 am   #9 (permalink)
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Re: How I Stained My Butcherblock Countertop

Quote:
Originally Posted by dalbrough View Post
Thanks so much for the honest update.

I was researching Waterlox last night and on their site it says you can just reapply without sanding to bring back orginal finish.

Deb

That is correct. My floors are finished in waterlox, over a stain mix VERY similar to Tomkist's (we used a 50-50 mix, Olympic dark walnut being one half, and the other half was an ebony stain, I think by minwax but I would have to double check).

Also, you can carefully dab a bit of the stain on blemishes and blend it in. The waterlox /stain combo is extremely forgiving. On the one hand, it gets marked up a little more easily than some other finishes, but it is FAR easier to repair and spot repairs can be done flawlessly.

Re number of stain coats: on my floors, we did 2 coats, but be aware that the second coat does not penetrate nearly as much as the first, which has somewhat of a sealing effect on the wood. So it is important to get the fist coat as close as possible to what you want as a finished effect. Also, it is best to wait at least 24 and preferably 48 hours between stain coats, or the second coat can actually remove part of the first (most stains contain some solvent). If using dark colors, it is very important to mix them well, and mix them again during the application, because dark pigments are heavy and separate out from the rest of the product.

Re when to apply waterlox over stain: typically you should wait at least 3 days, depending on climate,before applying the waterlox. Darker stains take longer to dry than lighter ones. Because waterlox contains solvent, it will alter the color slightly regardless, but if the stain below is not fully dry the waterlox can end up removing more stain than you anticipated.
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Old Aug 18th, 08, 1:07 pm   #10 (permalink)
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new question re stains

I found this decorator website where she recommends using "Ebony" minwax seal with General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal in Satin for the dark mahogany look countertops. It looks great, but is this food-safe?

The site has great ideas!

http://www.shelterstyle.com/PDFs/DIYjun08.pdf
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