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You could either use the CAPITA stainless steel legs (they have a plate that screws to the bottom of the cabinet carcass) or some other leg system/third party legs.In either case youshould probably use the ledgerboardprovided with the toekick package as a support for the back of the cabinet.I don't think there's an easy way to use the plastic AKURUM legs, though I suppose you could build a jig for drilling the holes in the bottom of the wall cabinets, using the bottom of a base unit for a pattern.
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On the Kitchen Planner, under base cabinets - kitchen islands, I think they show a shallow base cabinet. I assume that's a wall cabinet but does it mean they've added legs if they're offering it for use on an island?
you can easily use the black legs by just removing the plastic dowl and if you look at the base part of the leg there are two screw holes you can use to drill holes into the bottom of the wall cabinet.
you can easily use the black legs by just removing the plastic dowl and if you look at the base part of the leg there are two screw holes you can use to drill holes into the bottom of the wall cabinet.
How does one easily remove these black dowels? They look to me like they're molded as one piece. Unless you saw them off?
Annika (who was instructed to buy the back plastic legs to stand a wall cabinet on to funtion as a base cabinet, and who is now lost in space trying to figure out how to mount the whole mess...)
If only the Ikean who assisted me had remembered to sell me the hanging rail as well, in addition to (or instead of, even) the plastic legs I wouldn't have this question!
You can cut those little black plastic dowels off with a hack saw or coping saw - fine toothed blade.
We used wall cabinets on the back of our island. We built our own custom toe kick (not completed) and raised the cabinets up higher than the counter on the other side. We used legs on the regular base cabinets on one side of the island, but we did not use legs on the back side of the island where we used the wall cabinets. (We didn't use taller wall cabinets because we wanted an extra high toe kick on that side).
We also used some wall cabinets as floating cabinets in our laundry room about 14" off the floor - no legs - just attached to the wall.
I'd agree that using wall cabs as base cabs is easy to accomplish with the black plastic legs. It really is quite straightforward to do, so if it makes design sense, don't be hesitant to plan on it. They've even made drawers that are 12" deep to make those uppers-used-as-bases be useful for you.
Cut the protuding dowel flush off, insert 3/4" or slightly longer screws up through the holes in the bottom into the cab floor, and you have legs. A "Japanese shim saw", pull saw, or even a box cutter can all be used to cut them off. I forget what screw length I used. Obviously the bottom of the cab is 3/4", but the black plastic sits slightly off the bottom of the particle board base, and the black plastic has a little width also.
You'll gang the wall cabs-used-as-bases into the adjoining cabs using Ikea's male/female hardware the same way you'll gang all your cabs. We sandwiched some uppers back to back into an island, and surrounded them with base cabs on both sides. I used a ledger in back of all the cabs used as base cabs, and legs in the front. But that was my own preference which had nothing to do with using uppers as base cabs--- using legs in front and back of these would have been fine.
Toxigal wrote: 'the ikean who sold them to me told me to hang them on the rail so i think the legs will just be used to hold on the toe kick.'
You are right. The wall cabinets installed as base cabinets using legs only are not deep enough to avoid tipping over. I observed an Ikea certified installer use suspension rai to hang the cabinet on the floor and use legs to install toekick on the front and sides. You may not need a suspension rail if these cabinets are tied to the wall by other means or tied to other cabinets in the back.
Dilip
Last edited by sahildp; May 11th, 07 at 1:36 pm.
Reason: correction
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