[robmill3r]

I'm installing a 36"wx15"hx12"d wall cab in a dead-space corner. It will be sitting on our countertop.

I'll be installing 2 (back-to-back) side panels (vertically) in the center to make a divider, and have already got (2) 18"wx12"d deep drawers and (1) 18"wx12"d shallow drawer to fill this carcass. (In case you didn't know- they ARE availible!!!)

I've got the door fronts for this cab, and plan to have one full-height pull out on one side, and stack the shallow on top of the deep on the other. In order to do this, I'll need to cut one of the doors down.

I've seen posts about removing the edge banding of other doors, but I think Nexus has a wider banding. Does the iron method work here as well, or do I need to do something else?

If I missed the post on this topic, I'm so sorry, please redirect me.

[jen_va]

Welcome to the forums! I'm sorry, I don't have an answer for you about the edge-banding issue, but I just had to post to beg you to post pictures when you're done -- it sounds really cool.

[DesignDiva]

I don't think the Nexus door use edge banding at all. I'm looking at mine, and it looks like 1/8 inch thick actual wood is used to trim them.

edited to add: the description says it's solid beech on the edge.

Door/ drawer front:
Main parts: Particleboard
Front side/ Back side: Birch veneer, Clear acrylic lacquer
Edge: Solid beech, Clear lacquer

[robmill3r]

thanks guys.

I just finished modifying and installing the carcasses. I'll post some pics soon.

BTW: I'm machiavelliangirl's dh.

No, it's still not finished. Yes, we're VERY close!

We'll update our photobucket with all the pics soon.

I thought that might be the case w/ these d/f's. We've come up w/ another solution:
Just install the whole door on the deep drawer, and put the shallow in the top w/ a plastic d/f- kinda like a base cab pull out.

[robmill3r]

Okay. We tried the above config, and just didn't like it. reaching over those 15" high d/f's on a counter top cab is just too much!

Here's what we decided to do:

We'll install regular shallow drawers on the top of this cab w/ 6" df's.

The bottom will have the deep drawers. I'll cut down the bottom of those drawers. If I can, I'll install new beech edging on them. If not, we'll not worry about it, as it will not be seen anyway.

I've got a few doors that I'll be using to test the edging thing. I'll use my table saw and remove the edging from one, then fix it on the other with glue and brads. For sure, the brads won't show since it'll be on the bottom of this door.

Any potential problems? Anyone tried this before? Sould I apply a coat of poly? Am I missing anything?

[DesignDiva]

I'd suggest satin poly, there is a slight sheen to the finish.

You might be able to use a thin screen molding, it's got the slightly rounded edges that the trim has.

[robmill3r]

evaperconti wrote:

You might be able to use a thin screen molding, it's got the slightly rounded edges that the trim has.

So you wouldn't suggest cutting the door to size, less the edge; cutting the edge off the waste piece; and fastening it back onto the door?

[DesignDiva]

You could do that...but you'd have to be extremely precise.

I am not precise, therefore I immediately thought of the screen molding LOL

[kmcg]

My experience with Hallarum was that the "veneer" on the drawer edges was very thick - more like edge banding times 5 or 6 thicknesses. So the birch might be a similar thickness, but of solid birch. If I recall correctly, there is a seam where edge meets drawer on the Nexus (ignore this if I'm wrong about that fact). If there's a seam, you could experiment with removing the edge before you even cut the drawer. Before you cut, select the edge that will be scapped. Apply a hot iron (buffered by a clean cotton cloth) and see if you can pry the edge off with a putty knife - it just might work. If it works or not, you'll know what size to cut the drawer to (i.e. whether to leave room for the edge piece or not).

Be sure to come back and let us know what happens!

Kathy