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Old Oct 17th, 06, 8:35 am   #1
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I am still in the planning phase of my kitchen renovation.I really like the idea of knocking out the wall betweenmy narrow galley kitchen and the dining room, and then installing cabinets with glass doors on both sides (attached to the ceiling) where the wall used to be.

I've seen this done with other cabinets (eg, http://www.thomasvillecabinetry.com/...ple-White.aspx).I'm leaning towards doing this with theUlriksdal cabinets--if it's possible.

Has anyone else tried installing glass doors on both sides of an Ikea cabinet? Has anyone installed an Ikea cabinet to the ceiling? I'd love to hear from anyone who's tried--or anyone who has any thoughts on whether this is a realistic modification.

Thanks so much for your help!!!

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Old Oct 17th, 06, 8:45 am  
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Hi mamacita and welcome!

Unfortunately due to the engineering of the cabinet, you can neither use double glass doors or hang it from the ceiling. They are designed so the weight is carried via a bracket which attaches to the side and is fastened through the back.

There are certainly other options you can use, such as hanging shelving in either wood or glass, but personally I prefer not having cabinets over a peninsula and just having the open space.

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Old Oct 17th, 06, 8:50 am  
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What a fast response!

Thank youfor your help. I figured there as a reason I never saw Ikea cabinets hanging from the ceiling.

This site is a fantastic resource--thanks again!



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Old Oct 17th, 06, 9:04 am  
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Eva's always fast on the responses!

mamacita -- Welcome to you! If you're interested in reading more on the subject, there are a couple of other threads on this:
http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/view_...amp;forum_id=5
http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/view_...amp;forum_id=1

As you can see...highly debated. but ultimately not recommended. Sorry!

Susan


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Old Oct 18th, 06, 7:47 am  
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The first link in the above post shows rods suspended from the cieling. If you set up a shelf suspended by rods to carry the weight of the cab's, they could maybe sit on it, allowing you to modify the back of the cab to accept doors. My only concern would be that the backs of these cabinets add rigidity to the boxes, and you'd loose that. If you suspended rails between each cab and furred bracing between each cab (could attach your trim pcs between the cabs to these) which would make the cabs more rigid. Another alternative would be to do the same thing with back-to-back cabs. I think this could work...

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Old Oct 19th, 06, 12:56 am  
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That is so pretty! If you're really set on doing this, perhaps you could get a carpenter/cabinetmaker to make the suspended cabinets and use IKEA doors and perhaps an end panel. The custom built cabs would be more expensive, but you would save a lot on the rest of your cabs to more than make up for it.

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Old Oct 19th, 06, 1:10 pm  
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I have done this once.

it was with 2 36" cabinets.

We ordered Adel birch doors but only counted on one side of the cabinets being operational. On the back side of the cabinet I trimmed off the upper and lower lip that spaces the cabinet away from the wall and attached the doors in place of the back panels.(18g brad nails, filled the holes with putty) This covered the exposed particle wood. (this looked OK, but the client didn't want to pay me to edge band the particle wood, I would do it for myself if this was my kitchen)

Then I used an L bracket in the front and rear of the top panel of each box to provide additional support to the sides of the box.

I connected both boxes together, marked the stubs on the ceiling and raised the cabinets up tight tothe ceiling and sunk 3" coarse thread drywall screw into any stud I could get to.

When It was all said and done, It looked rather nice.

I would rank this a8-9on thedifficulty scale for a DIY 'er.

Good Luck!

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Old Mar 15th, 07, 11:05 am  
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Originally Posted by archie View Post
I have done this once.

it was with 2 36" cabinets.

We ordered Adel birch doors but only counted on one side of the cabinets being operational. On the back side of the cabinet I trimmed off the upper and lower lip that spaces the cabinet away from the wall and attached the doors in place of the back panels.(18g brad nails, filled the holes with putty) This covered the exposed particle wood. (this looked OK, but the client didn't want to pay me to edge band the particle wood, I would do it for myself if this was my kitchen)

Then I used an L bracket in the front and rear of the top panel of each box to provide additional support to the sides of the box.

I connected both boxes together, marked the stubs on the ceiling and raised the cabinets up tight tothe ceiling and sunk 3" coarse thread drywall screw into any stud I could get to.

When It was all said and done, It looked rather nice.

I would rank this a8-9on thedifficulty scale for a DIY 'er.

Good Luck!
I realized this is an old thread but do you have pictures of your project?
I'm going thru the same issue and wanted to see a visual solution.

Thanks!

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