I'm sure that if you are interested in a worktop sink, you know that in the non-IKEA world, these things run about $1500 - more from a sheet metal fabricator. So, what are you, hip style maven on a budget to do?
Get a VARDE worktop sink. Yes, the IKEAns will tell you it "can't be done". That the lines (VARDE and AKURUM) don't work together. Well, with some simple lumber, minimal tools and a few easy to get supplies, they sure will.
First, you're going to need 3 cabinets to form the sink base:
2 12" cabinets - configure these as you like. We have 2 pullouts.
1 30" sinkbase cabinet.
Assemble, install 12"/30"/12", leveland gang together as per IKEA instructions. Gang them to all your other cabinets too, and attach them to your walls as needed depending on your leg set-up of choice.
From your local lumber source you are going to need:
1 8ft. 2x4
1 2x2 sheet of 1/2" plywood (they call these project boards)
6-8 2" screws
(make sure these are long enough to go through your 2x4 and the existing wooden sink support frame, but NOT long enough to touch the metal surface of the sink)
While you are at the home center, you can also probably pick up one roll of self stick cork shelf liner (optional).
Tools:
scissors, screwdriver, saws for plywood and 2x4, level, pencil, tape measure
I am NOT going to give you measurements, because you should measure your own sink for complete accuracy. There may be slight differences in your sink's existing wooden frame.
To modify the VARDE sink:
Flip the sink onto a cushioned worksurface - basins up!
The first thing you need to overcome is the non support of the "countertop sides" - if you've seen this sink in your IKEA, chances are, it's dented to either side of the basins. That's because there is no support for the countertop in its design. Bad move, IKEA. To correct this, you want to measure the space between your basin and the inside edge of the wooden frame.
Addabout 1/2" to that measurement and make the appropriate cuts from your 1/2" plywood.Once for each side.
Cut a piece of cork liner and affix it to the side of the ply thatwill make contact with the underside of the sink.
Usinga screwdriver carefully for leverage, slide the ply under the wooden frame. Adjust it so that each end is seated under the framing. It will be tight.
Under the frontend, (opposite the sink hole) measure under the "lip" forplacement of the 2x4. It's about 57". Screw the 2x4 to the existing wood frame.
You'll notice that basically what you've done is filled the void between the existing wooden frame and the sink's underbelly lip.
Measure both sides. Affix pieces of 2x4 to the existing frame just as you didfor the front.
The backlip edge is already resting on the cabinet edge, so there's nothing to do back there. You shouldn't even have issues with the support structure of the 30" cab to plumb your tap.
Check for level, full function of your 12" cab doors,and usingthe countertopattachment points, attach the worktop.
As I like to say, VIOLA!
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