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Old Feb 25th, 10, 4:15 am   #1
woferry
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Anyone with a Rev-A-Shelf pegboard pullout (434-series)?

Well, after a year enjoying my 90% finished kitchen (backsplash and moulding still not done. ), I'm finally building up the energy to work on the last remaining bits.

One of my original decisions I haven't been too thrilled with, I went with a 6" wall filler and 3" base filler from Rev-A-Shelf. The 6" is great, and provides enough storage space that I really don't need the 3" with shelves, and would rather have had the pegboard to hang things.

A year ago I confirmed with Rev-A-Shelf that the rails for the 432- and 434- series units were the same, so I figured I'd buy the 434-BF-3SS, swap out the pull-out portions (the frame I've built around my 432-BF-3C means the fixed portion isn't going anywhere anytime soon) and see if I could sell what I'd have left over (basically a complete 432-BF-3C).

Well, after realizing that 1) the best price I can find on the 434 is ~$160 (the 432 only cost me $82), and 2) looking more closely at the pictures/documentation it looks like it's even the same pull-out unit but without the shelves and with the pegboard piece installed, I'm leaning less towards replacing the unit and more towards just buying metal pegboard and attaching it to my existing pull-out.

SO... what I'm wondering is if anyone here has one of the 434- series pull-outs, and if so if you could tell me (or ideally show me) how the SS piece is attached to the pull-out. I've found plenty of places with metal pegboard (not exactly the right size of course, so I guess I get to have fun cutting it), but I'm not sure what would be a good way to go about attaching it to the wood portion, how much space to leave on the back-side for the pegs, etc. A few pictures and a few measurements would go a long way I think, and if I do manage to pull it off I'd be happy to post details here.

Thanks in advance. - Will

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Old Feb 28th, 10, 3:03 pm  
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Re: Anyone with a Rev-A-Shelf pegboard pullout (434-series)?

Hi Will,

Just reading thru your description, I think you can do this on your own just fine.

You don't have to have the pegboard go all the way - really, will you use the very back back? So if you find metal pegboard (and I've done some looking on my own and there's lots to choose from) you want something that's narrower anyway. and remember you can turn pieces sideways :^)

You'd probably want just about 1/2" spacing. To attach the board to the wood, I'd say just use some 1/2"thick lathe strips and make a "frame" with a cross-bar. Screw that to the backing board, and then mount the pegboard to this frame, securing to the cross-bar in the middle for stability.

Another way to do this would be using screws with nylon or rubber 'stand-offs" to space the pegboard away from the backing panel. Screw from the front of the pegboard, thru the holes, put the spacer over the screw, continue to the backing panel. However, this would leave you with unfinished edges (but some of the boards I've seen have folded-over edges, so not a problem)

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