[kmcg]

The only reason I used a false drawer was because it was right next to (perpendicular) the Domsjo sink, so a full height door would have had clearance issues.
Kathy

[MiamiBeach]

Originally Posted by kmcg

The only reason I used a false drawer was because it was right next to (perpendicular) the Domsjo sink, so a full height door would have had clearance issues.
Kathy

Of course, I see that in the picture now. Thanks!

[meyerovb]

Thanks for this thread... you literally redesigned my kitchen for me with this idea! I have a question about installation. If I get the 36" cabinet with 2 drawers (on top), do I just use the door on the right to cover the LV unit, and install the right drawer as usual... and then just cover the whole left side with something (to make sure it doesn't open up and have stuff fall out)? Did you guys all use the stock door that came with the cabinet, or did you have to cut it down to size, or buy a door that came from a different cabinet?

Thanks for the info!

P.S. Here's a link to my other post that contains the kitchen planner file of my kitchen (or at least, my initial design of it), with some worries about my spacing explained in it.

P.S.S. Why would you use a cup pull instead of a handle that matches the other handles in your kitchen?

[kmcg]

Originally Posted by meyerovb

If I get the 36" cabinet with 2 drawers (on top), do I just use the door on the right to cover the LV unit, and install the right drawer as usual... and then just cover the whole left side with something (to make sure it doesn't open up and have stuff fall out)? Did you guys all use the stock door that came with the cabinet, or did you have to cut it down to size, or buy a door that came from a different cabinet?

I'm glad you were inspired! When you install the cabinet door/drawer, the biggest concern will be clearance for the dishwasher, right? You just have to calculate very carefully what size door will actually be able to open without hitting the DW. Remember, the door pulls straight out so there's no forgiveness you might get with the arc of a regular opening door. If you can fit the door in, I see no reason the drawer wouldn't work.

Don't order the entire BD36 for this. You don't need hinges or the extra drawer and door. You would order separately the 36" cabinet frame/box, the desired size drawer front, the drawer itself, the door, and the drawer partition. This partition is installed in the center of the cabinet, parallel to the side wall of the cabinet, so that you have a place to mount the drawer glides.

For my setup, from the cabinet edge to the corner is about 17" (the maximum space available to me for my design), and the rest of the cabinet sits behind the perpendicular cabinet. This part that's behind the adjoining cab didn't need a cover because it was next to the wall of that adjoining cabinet. But for an adjoining DW, you'd want something between it and the inside of your LV base. Because I had only 17" to work with, I used a 15" wide door, and an 18" wide drawer front I had lying around. I cut the end off the drawer front, extending it flush to the corner. I could have used a 15" drawer if I had wanted, but I wanted to cover the whole space and I wasn't looking for a functioning drawer.

If you have enough space to account for the 18" drawer/door plus what you need for clearance, then order the 18". If you have a clearance problem, you may need to go down to 15", but if you go back to my early posts on this, you'll see that 15" doesn't allow for the door to overlap the edge of the cabinet.

Assuming you do 18" door/drawer plus 2" for clearing the DW, you'll attach the door onto the LV unit with the right side of the door flush with the cabinet's outside edge. In the buffer space you've allowed for clearance, you'll need to put in some sort of filler piece so there's not a gap between the door and the corner. My filler is attached to the adjoining cabinet, but because you will need some sort of panel to separate the cab from the DW, you can use that panel to provide this filler space too. I've never used the Ikea 49" corner base, but I understand it comes with a panel that provides the filler and separation.

In case you have the space, did you know that you can order the Ikea 49" base cabinet without the lazy susan, and then install the LV unit in there? That's a more self-contained solution to the problem because it has this extra panel and anticipates the need for filler, but I just didn't have the space.

I used cup pulls on all drawers, and knobs on all doors, except on the tall pantries, where I used some large handles. So I used a cup pull on the faux drawer (after polling people at Ikeafans about that very question ).

Hope this helps! If you have more questions, please post the exact measurements you're working with - i.e. how much space do you have between the corner and the next cabinet, and how far does the DW extend.

Kathy

[meyerovb]

Thanks so much for the info! Here is a link to my other posting, which includes my ikea planner design, links to the dishwasher I'm using, as well as questions on my spacing of appliances (which is what's fretting me the most). If a base cabinet truly extends only 24" from a wall, then I will have 18.5 inches exposed the edge of the perpendicular cabinet. However, since the perpendicular cabinet is holding my dishwasher, I don't know exactly how far it will stick out (I've never been able to measure this, and I have NO experience with kitchen cabinet installs). I'm not worried about the handle on the dishwasher blocking the door though, the door will start underneath the handle (although the handle MAY block the drawer...) Is there any way for me to know for sure before installation what size door/drawer I can use? How do I determine the EXACT (down to, well, 16ths of an inch I guess) distance from the wall that my dishwasher will end?

[kmcg]

That's a tough one to know without having the dishwasher right there. My base cabs extend 24-1/8" and my installed DW is 25" at the thickest part (the panel at the top with the recessed handle). It might have been possible to recess it further - I don't know because we didn't try. Maybe an appliance expert will show up and help with this question. My guess is that 18.5" would be cutting it a little too close for comfort.

Kathy

[meyerovb]

I have a dishwasher with a pro-style towel bar, but I'm going to put a drawer on the top, so the door for the LV unit will not be as high as the handle of the dishwasher... is the rest of the dishwasher flush to the 24 1/8" cabinet front? I have to look into how to install dishwashers in ikea cabinets and what the EXACT dimensions of mine are... off to pc richards...

Your original post showed that about 16" was exposed from the 36" cabinet, and you used a 15" door with 1" filler, am I right?

[kmcg]

My LV cabinet extends close to 17" from the corner if you count the side wall of the cabinet, which is exposed: 3/4" cabinet wall + 15" door + about 1" filler. All I needed to clear was the doors on the perpendicular cabinet.

My DW is not installed inside an Ikea cabinet - just between them - so I'm not sure how that affects your planning. The bulk of the DW is 24" deep, with the control panel about 25".

Kathy

[meyerovb]

I didn't know you just put the dishwasher in without a cabinet, but basically I'll put up supporting filler pieces for the countertop, because the range is next to the dishwasher, plus the dishwasher needs about 1" clearance from the perpendicular cabinets in order to clear the handles. I guess I have to figure that out... but since your's is only 24" from the wall, it gives me hope that my idea will work... now if only I can open the oven without hitting the fridge... lol

[kelly]

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