39-1/8" door over ganged 15-1/4" & 24" refrigerator cabinets.
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I have high ceilings but a teeny kitchen. The space above the fridge can accomodate two refrigerator cabinets, a 15-1/4" high and a 24" high cabinet. This gives me a total of 39-1/4". In the interests of harmonizing the cabinet doors with the rest of the kitchen, I want to put a 39-1/8" door over these two cabinets.
I'm thinking of running a 1/8" blade thru the side wall of one of the cabs to shorten it, but this would also mean somehow fastening the severed side panel back together.
On the other hand, if I simply shave off 1/8" along an edge (top or bottom), the pre-drilled Ikea fastener holes won't line up properly.
Either way, the sturdiness of the cabinet body is compromised.
I'm a total newbie to Ikea, but I've given it a year of study (yes, this kitchen has been brewing for a year in my head). The two solutions above are entirely conjecture - I have yet to rip open any of the cardboard boxes I trudged home from Ikea.
Any suggestions for how to finesse the 1/8" gap?
Thanks in advance.
Typically the doors are slightly shorter than the cabinets, but I havn't tried stacking two cabinets and using only one door - the only way to find out is to try it on site. Keep the packaging for the door - you can always return it if it dosn't work (most stores will accept cabinets for credit even if they are assembled).Â*
Is it 1/8" we're talking about? Extra cabinet box showing, above and beyond the height of the door. At ceiling height? I'd not worry about it. I don't think it will show. Are you able to add crown moulding to the tops? That would help to ameliorate the presence of any excess cabinet frame.
What door style are you considering?
Susan
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S-
I am installing Nexus Birch.
No crown moulding, straight filler strips to ceiling.
You are probably right that the gap won't be noticeable. My concern is that the hinge holes between cabinet carcass and door won't align.
S-
I am installing Nexus Birch.
No crown moulding, straight filler strips to ceiling.
You are probably right that the gap won't be noticeable. My concern is that the hinge holes between cabinet carcass and door won't align to install the Ikea hardware.
I've heard that most modifiers resort to drilling their own holes and installing a screw bit. This is OK for solid wood, but not a reliable solution for particle board.
The hinge holes are relatively easy to drill , and since the hinges use anchors it's quite as strong as the original holes. But I doubt you'd have to drill extra holes, you'd have to try it and see, but based on the system used by IKEA you'll probably be able to just use existing holes, it's pretty flexible. If you have to drill new ones though it'll be fine.
James
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