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Hi folks,
I just created a webpage so that you can see some photos of my kitchen. We live in a 1920's arts and crafts bungalow so the Adel Md. Brown was just the right design to fit in with the original woodwork in the other areas of the house. I am still not done. I need to add something dark in the rear of the wine rack (I might just paint the rear wall inside dark brown to blend with the cabinets, you will never see it). I still need to add the trim around the top of the cabinets but that will take some patience for the miter cuts, so that is a post-holiday project. I plan to move the pantry over and squeeze in another 3/4 inch panel to the left of the fridge (to match right side) so that I cannot see the birch melamine side of the pantry. I do have one small regret that I cannot change. I should have ordered countertops that were 26" deep instead of the standard 25" that the Lowes guy recommended. My countertops are flush with the front of the cabinets, which is fine. However, I would have preferred a little bit of an overhang to make clean-up a little bit easier and hide that ever present birch melamine. Most of all, I am glad we went with the counter-depth fridge because this is a really small space and it really helps with the flow when you walk into the room. It is hard to get the pics to show everything because of the small space, but I hope you can get the idea. I did everything myself except the gas cook-top install and new wiring from the breaker box for oven and dishwasher (I definitely leave natural gas to the professionals). Outside of that, I hooked up all appliances, plumbing fixtures such as sink and faucet, range hood, oven, dishwasher, countertops, etc.) This is my second IKEA kitchen and I really learned a lot with the first one and incorporated that knowledge with this kitchen.
Lori, I hope you don't mind that I moved this to its own thread.
Your kitchen looks so sharp! Do you mind if I ask a couple more questions? How wide is the wine rack you built? In the corner over the susan cabinet how did you arrange the wall cabinets? Are they meeting corner to corner or is one a blind cab?
And you did all that yourself? Congratulations! Thank you so much for sharing your pictures!
Gloria
Sorry it took me so long to respond, I was one of those sorry people that lost electricity for about a week because of the ice storms in the central part of the U.S.
Regarding your question about the wall cabinets in the corner, the corner is not being used as cabinet space because I decided to use the space up inside to hide an outlet where I can plug-in all of my under/inside cabinet lights. It is tied to a reachable wall switch below. There is a small (maybe 1/2 inch) gap between the two cabinets that I put an extra side panel in place so that the cabinets look continuous, and the small space allows the doors to operate fully without bumping into each other. There are a lot of seams because of three panels in that area, but it passed my husband's inspection so I guess it is OK!
An alteration that turned out rather nicely was a filler piece that was installed between the 12 inch base and the corner lazy susan cabinet to the left of the sink (not sure how well you can see this in my pictures). I originally used a piece of a side panel that was flush with the birch cabinets, so that means that it was set back by the depth of the doors, and of course, the placement of the doors beside it resulted in seeing a small amount of the light colored birch cabinets on both sides- which I am always striving to hide! I solved this by ripping (on a table saw) a 2 1/4 inch wide x base cabinet height piece of a door (that was left over because it was defective and IKEA sent me a replacement since I am 3 hours away from the store - thanks IKEA!), then gently rounded the ripped edge with sandpaper to match the finished slightly rounded edge on the other uncut side, then used Min-Wax mahogany furniture marker on the unstained cut side before attaching. (By the way, I think this min-wax furniture marker is really good for touch up, it is easy and really close to the Adel Md. Brown stain. I found mine at Lowe's near the min-wax stains) Anyway, the area on the filler piece that was stained with the furniture marker butts up against the lazy susan corner base cabinet door, so it just needed to blend in with the shadows and did not require a polyurethane finish. I attached the finished piece of door onto the filler piece beforehand, then using screws I attached the back piece through the cabinets on each side. This makes the outer piece flush with the doors that are adjacent. You can still kind of see the birch cabinets in my photos, but that is because of the flash. In normal light these areas are in shadow and they are not visible. It is funny, I don't mind the birch showing in my glass cabinets, I just don't like it showing around the edges of the solid wood doors. Go figure. I hope all of this info helps someone!
Last edited by clemson94; Dec 17th, 07 at 10:21 pm.
Reason: clarity
I forgot to answer your question about the wine cabinet. It turned out that the space I had available was six inches wide so that allowed me to make 7 wine cubbies, each about 5 in. square (I think it turned out to be 5 x 5 1/8). I probably could have fit one more cubby with the size of a typical wine bottle, but then the cubbies would not have been square and this may have been awkward looking. If I did it over, I would have shortened the depth of the panels by 1/2 inch and put a panel on the back before hanging. Seeing the wall behind doesn't look bad, but I would rather it not show. A quick coat of medium brown paint on the wall at the rear of the cubbies will solve the problem that my poor planning caused. By the way, the space was so tight that I was able to just pound it in (with a rubber mallot) between the last cabinet and the wall and then screw it in from the inside of the adjacent cabinet. I also added a small wood cleat at the rear of the bottom shelf to give it some extra support.
P.S. the reason I had 6 inches left over was a design decision because I wanted the glass wall cabinets on each side of the sink to be balanced and that meant the same size. And the microwave cabinet needed to be 24 in. wide, so that left the 6 inches. We always drink wine, so this really turns out to be a great use of the space for us.
Here is the web page with my kitchen photos: Photos
P.S. We have already changed out the Hansgrohe metro faucet because it was just too big and splashed too much. We replaced it with a faucet that looks just as nice that is more appropriately proportioned for our little 1-1/2 bowl sink.
Last edited by clemson94; Apr 20th, 08 at 12:49 pm.
Reason: fixed link again
We're about to start installing Adel MB ourselves and are trying to decide on a paint color and are thinking of a pale yellow and we love the color in your kitchen! Would you mind sharing your paint color?
Greetings. I have a question on your wine rack. I know you explained a bit about it, but I was wondering if it was all custom made or if you used and IKEA part for it? Can you explain a bit more about how you did that?
Hi Kimberly,
OK, please do not laugh as I try to explain this. I used three pieces of perfekt (sp?) med. brown wall cover panels. I chose to use the 42" size (made for 39" cabinets) because I have 39" wall cabinets. Basically, I figured out how big I wanted my wine "cubbies" and then cut one of the cover panels into pieces that would act as the horizontal shelves. The other two panels were used unaltered as the sides of the wine rack. So, let's say you want your wine cabinet to be 6 inches wide (like mine). You would need to slice one of the panels into 5 in. wide pieces, because each side vertical panel is 1/2 inch wide - so that totals 6". I used a table saw to cut my horizontal shelf pieces because it is easy to make sure they are all straight when using a table saw. But you could use a radial saw with a straight edge clamped on to make sure your cut is straight. After I cut the horizontal shelf pieces (I was able to make eight pieces from one 42" panel) then I used medium sized clamps to hold the horizontal shelf with the two side panels in place, and one at a time, pre-drilled and then screwed through the outside of the side panel and into the horizontal shelf pieces. I used a counter-sink drill bit so that the screws would be flush. I put two screws into each side, for a total of four screws into each horizontal piece. However, before I drilled and screwed the pieces on, I measured about a million times and drew pencil lines (and erased and redrew a lot) on the side panels where I planned to put my shelves. My goal was to position the horizontal shelves so that all of the cubbies were perfectly even. To do this, I used fuzzy math. I had to subtract out the 1/2 in. width of each shelf (so in my case I had to multiply 1/2 in. x 8 shelves = 4 inches). Then take the total height of the panel minus the four inches to figure out how far apart the shelves needed to be spaced. I also wanted the bottom trim to match my other cabinets so I also had to subtract that portion too to make sure I got it right. Once I got that number, I divided by how many cubbies I wanted (seven) to get the spacing. I am not naturally talented with math and fractions, so it took me about an hour to subtract and divide then get my pencil lines drawn correctly before I started assembling. When all was said and done, the cabinet turned out to be pretty sturdy. But as I mentioned earlier, my one mistake was leaving out the back. I should have used one more panel to make a back. Again, you would have to subtract the 1/2 in. width of the panel so that your wine cabinet does not stick out in the front by the half inch. That means you would need to rip 1/2 in. off all of the pieces to accommodate. When it came time to install, I screwed into the wine cabinet from the left adjacent cabinet and the fit between the cabinet and the wall was tight enough to ensure it would not go anywhere. I bet if you had a back on your wine cabinet you could also attach it to the wall that way to add stability. Lastly, I had to notch out at the top rear of the rack where the metal hanging strip was on the wall. I guess if I had calculated correctly during that step I would not have continued the hanging strip in this area. Gosh, I hope I did not confuse you with all of this information!
Let me know if you need me to clarify anything I said.
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