The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
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Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Hi Corrypaw,
Thanks for the reply.
First for the hinges. I also saw a post which I can't find now but I saved the link. It seems to be a different Blum hinge than the one personalshopper linked to so I'll put the link here:
There seems to be a connection between Richelieu and Blum. On Richelieu's webpage, for the HD hinge, they show both a
pic
of the hinge from HD and another pic of a hinge which says "Blum" on it. Just to be thorough here's the link to Richelieu's page:
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Hi Corrypaw,
I apologize - I knew it would be confusing trying to use only words to ask my question. These things are much easier with pictures. So I drew a diagram based on dalbrough's description, which hopefully I can upload. If you refer to that diagram my question might be clearer.
If #1(blind cabinet) is a 36" cabinet and an 18" door is used along with an 18" permanently attached panel then there will be 23" of cab #1 exposed once cab #2 (adjacent cabinet) is installed. If the 18" door is actually 17 7/8" that will leave 5 1/8" of the panel exposed. (This is my main concern and can be seen in the center of the diagram) However in the pictures of dalbrough's cabinets there does not appear to be that large of an exposure. (see dalbrough's pics which I have attached)
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Thanks for uploading the sketch and photos, niwashikun...AND the three types of hinges, all of which I'm now filing away for future reference. NOW I get it. I (stupidly) didn't realize that you were referring to the depth of the perpendicular cabinet in your first post. Sorry I can't be more help, but there are plenty of people here (lwho are familiar with this blind corner thing - hopefully they will offer some additional insight too. When we did ours, we used a 30, and left 3" of filler, because of our particular situation...but I can tell you that I remember wondering the same thing about Dalbrough's blind- there was so little filler/panel showing, I thought perhaps the cabinet was actually a 30" and not 36, or maybe the doors or stationary panel were a different size than stated. In the end, though, it's as Personalshopper suggests - do what works for you, try different ideas out beforehand, and you'll hit on the right configuration eventually. It's clear you know what you are doing, so give it a go, and good luck! As long as you have the right hinges.....
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Even if Dalbrough didn't, it could certainly be done. The priority considerations are how much exposed cabinet you want, and the available door sizes. Remember, too, that if you're hoping to use a glass door, you have two options: 15 and 18". The blind cabinet doesn't need to go all the way to the corner. We won't tell.
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Niwashikun, tbb123's theory makes sense, given how little cover panel/filler is showing in that corner. In our case, we also did as P.S. suggests...we mounted our 30" about an inch from the corner, because we wanted to allow for a 15" door, 3" of filler showing, AND space behind and inside the hidden part of the cabinet. The stationary panel/filler we attached was only 9" wide (3" showing as filler, 6" hidden behind the perpendicular cabinet). We left the remaining 6" as open space on purpose, as we were planning to use that area to hide the wiring/boxes/etc for undercab lighting. There really are many ways to do this configuration. Please let us know what you end up doing, as future posters may find it helpful. Good luck!
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Wow, sorry for taking so long to reply. I still can't quite figure out this whole blog/forum thing. I keep getting lost and can't find my way back.
It's funny because it reminds me of an IKEA store. They both have so much information coming at you and I know they both are organized but it takes me a while to figure out the system.
I'm actually very organized but may have a mild case of Asperger's. I don't adjust well to other systems and usually have to completely understand the system before I can function well. Drives my wife crazy.
To Personalshopper- I am so averse to wasting space that the idea of pulling that cabinet away from the wall almost makes me nauseous. But you are probably right. After looking at dalbrough's photos again I see the blind cab is slightly off the corner. And thanks for the heads up on the glass door sizes.
To tbb123- Yes I think you are right. Probably a typo in one of the sizes.
To corrypaw- Thanks for the example that helps to see the flexibility.
I'm pretty good with improv (and this little idiosyncratic bungalow requires it) but I feel at a loss since I don't know all the actual dimensions. Everything seems to be rounded which is fine if you know the actual measurements. Just like 2x4 is fine as long as you know it's really 1 1/2 x 3 1/2.
This is true of the planner also. I try to put in a wall which is 3 1/4" and it makes it 4", so I lose 3/4" which I know exists but it won't let me use the space. If anyone knows of a list of actual sizes it would be appreciated. Or perhaps a formula that holds true for the cabs and doors.
I'm usually dealing with very small tolerances so it helps to know exact actual dimensions.
Sorry for that digression. Back on topic.
My blind cab situation is a little persnickety because I'll have exactly 30" between the wall and window trim- no room to use a 30" cabinet and move it out from the corner. So that would leave me 17 1/8" to install the door. So I guess my options are:
1. to use a 15" door with 2+" of filler.
2. to cut down an 18" door to 16 1/2". This would cause finish and design issues. What about hinge hole issues. I assume the doors are pre drilled.
3. use custom doors
4. Any others??
Separate question corrypaw- You said you left the last 6" of blind cabinet open. Does that mean you can reach from under your cab and into the blind cab. What about stuff falling out. Also I'm considering under cabinet lighting so I'm wondering how you used that space. I've been wondering where the outlets and cords all go. Any chance of a photo?
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
hi!
just to cover things, your dimensions above are someone else's, correct? i ask because you state that you only have 30" to work with. i also disputed the blind corner cab dimensions (waaay back when), so, for uniformity, dalbrough used 36" cab perpendicular to 30" cab and finished with 18" doors. you have 24" cab and 30" of space perpendicular? if so, you would work toward a 12" door on a 24"-30" blind cab with appropriate offset. as dalbrough pointed out, she only placed less often used items in back, so why waste space? it should be fine.
i would also suggest you always go with the smaller rounded dimensions of available space. this will allow for wiggle room....and less pulling out of hair?
Re: The little kitchen that could and did……my finished dream Adel White kitchen project!!
Niwashikun, I will try and post a couple of photos of my blind corner later today, if my computer cooperates. I'm ashamed to admit it, but it's been a year since we started our kitchen, and we still haven't gotten around to the undercabinet lighting yet . I will try to explain what we are hoping to do, though, just so you can visualize what I was talking about in relation to the blind cabinet. We chose to do it this way because our electrician suggested we configure the cabinet to allow the transformer/box for the undercabinet lighting to be placed inside the hidden portion of the cabinet, and out of sight, with the wires running out of the 6" open area, and then down underneath the perpendicular cabinet. In theory, it should work, but I won't know for sure until we tackle the job...soon, I hope. Again, I'll try and post pics later. I do know there are some really helpful threads on here (with photos) where people have discussed how they've put in their lighting - try plugging the term "undercabinet lighting" in the search bar at the top of the forum page, by the google magnifying glass, and you should find some discussions on the topic. As for things "falling out" in the open area, I don't have that problem, as (like Dalbrough) I store things in that space that I rarely use, mainly large platters and holiday plates, etc. The biggest issue I have with my particular cabinet is that, because we never did find the right hinges, we had to hang the door so that it opens out FROM the corner instead of in towards it, which is really awkward and annoys the heck out of me - but it doesn't bother my husband at all. And for the record, I avoided a lot of hassles because my OCD self spent a few weeks figuring out how to navigate the forum, learning as much as I could beforehand about doing an IKEA kitchen. I found the thread "Fess Up - Lessons learned during installation", particularly helpful prior to starting our project. Yes, the planner is annoying sometimes, and I still can't figure out how to use the gallery properly, but boy oh boy, there were a few times when we were stumped by something, hammer in hand, and being able to jump on here and find the solution right away was great! Hope this clarifies some of what I said earlier - photos to follow soon!
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But you are probably right. After looking at dalbrough's photos again I see the blind cab is slightly off the corner. And thanks for the heads up on the glass door sizes.
. I will try to explain what we are hoping to do, though, just so you can visualize what I was talking about in relation to the blind cabinet. We chose to do it this way because our electrician suggested we configure the cabinet to allow the transformer/box for the undercabinet lighting to be placed inside the hidden portion of the cabinet, and out of sight, with the wires running out of the 6" open area, and then down underneath the perpendicular cabinet. In theory, it should work, but I won't know for sure until we tackle the job...soon, I hope. Again, I'll try and post pics later. I do know there are some really helpful threads on here (with photos) where people have discussed how they've put in their lighting - try plugging the term "undercabinet lighting" in the search bar at the top of the forum page, by the google magnifying glass, and you should find some discussions on the topic. As for things "falling out" in the open area, I don't have that problem, as (like Dalbrough) I store things in that space that I rarely use, mainly large platters and holiday plates, etc. The biggest issue I have with my particular cabinet is that, because we never did find the right hinges, we had to hang the door so that it opens out FROM the corner instead of in towards it, which is really awkward and annoys the heck out of me - but it doesn't bother my husband at all. And for the record, I avoided a lot of hassles because my OCD self spent a few weeks figuring out how to navigate the forum, learning as much as I could beforehand about doing an IKEA kitchen. I found the thread "Fess Up - Lessons learned during installation", particularly helpful prior to starting our project. Yes, the planner is annoying sometimes, and I still can't figure out how to use the gallery properly, but boy oh boy, there were a few times when we were stumped by something, hammer in hand, and being able to jump on here and find the solution right away was great! Hope this clarifies some of what I said earlier - photos to follow soon!
